Got rid of my Mag Ride Shocks!

[Billy high]

Thanks, Ian. No message up to now.
I have a different problem now, started a new topic. Car is dead. Header is "battery?"

 

[IAN]

A dead battery, what's new.

Billy

Attached are copies of the owner manual that shows what can be done to open the trunk lid ( the key turned clockwise ) and the driver door.

Ounce the trunk latch is release the lid will pop out of few inches, then lift the lid.
You will find that it is hard to lift it, as there is the hydraulic pressure in the opening tubing circuits.

Ounce the lid is open enough, on the LH rear trunk up side of the upholstery panel has an handle (tab) to open the driver door, pull on it and the door will open. Voilà.

Then you can get in for opening the hood.

Put a charger on the battery at slow charge for the night, it should be charged enough in the morning. ( keep the hood open ( about 6 '' ) while the charger is doing the charging)

If the dead battery do not keep its charge, then replace it or visit your Cadillac or Chevrolet dealer or some corvette/XLR repairs shop of your area.
All battery grounds should be cleaned depply, including the 2 wires on the frame.

A battery tender on the battery cables ( protected against the metal items ) would be necessary in order for not re booting the side door windows.

GOOD luck

IAN

 

[Billy high]

Thanks, Ian. Yep, first thing this morning I tried it. Still dead. I had my battery tender plugged in all night. It has terminals attached to the battery terminal clamp nuts. I did use the key, opened it up as you described (I've read most of the owners manual, and look stuff up in it)
Took the battery to Oriellys and had it tested. Even after charging all night, and then charging this morning, the tester said "charge battery before testing." So it was totally shot! Thankfully it didn't die last week when I took the wife to the airport.
New battery, everything is perfect again! Didn't even wipe the radio presets. Indexed the windows and went to put shocks on. Did the front two, rears tomorrow. The battery thing cost half the day.

 

[Billy high]

So, in regards to the shocks; we (my brother and I) installed the front ones today. It's a fairly difficult job, but we handled it with no problems. The old right front one was completely shot. It was where the clunking was coming from.
All in all it went well.
We're going to do the rears in the morning, I'm bringing my big wrenches and sockets out of my truck for the bottom mounting bolts.
After each one we started the car to check for the 80 mph message, so if it happened we'd know which one caused it. No message!
The ride was noticably better right away. My brothers shop is on a dirt road, so I could tell instantly things were better. No clunking, much better ride. I'm pretty darn happy. I could tell a difference between the front and rear going over expansion joints and stuff.
Tomorrow the rears.
I'll let y'all know how it goes.
Long day. G'night!

 

[Billy high]

Ps. Decided to leave the ride height alone...

 

[IAN]

Hi Billy

You wont have this problem….. to make it easier for the remove/installion of the shocks, compress them and tie it with a rope, in order to keep the stem down as possible and easier to get through the suspension components. ( the entire suspension must be down as much as possible )

Once in place, then the rope can be remove, this way you will spend a lot less energy in trying to get shock out/in its place.

Good luck.

IAN

 

[Billy high]

It's so funny, Ian. We did compress the shocks, and in our case we used a tie down strap, hooked the hooks in the bottom mounting holes and gently ran the strap over the top, leaving the rubber cap in place.
The rears we used three big zip ties strung together...
The rears were done today, easier than the fronts.
The ride is noticeably better, smoother, quieter and no sinister message on the dash. So far.
Tomorrow; front tires, alignment.
Thanks for the help, guys!

 

[James Landi]

I have noted, but perhaps I've missed something, that members are replacing all four shocks, yet in this latest posting, one of the members replace just two. Apparently, they all don't fail or "wear out" at the same time, given the nature of the design, so that they either work as designed or fail to work. So my question is, as follows: if one of the shocks is leaking, is replacing one at a time an approach to solving the problem? Appreciate your thoughts on this. James

 

[IAN]

When changing shocks

James.

Its like tires, they both wears at their similar rate, if one shock leaks shortly they other could be soon leaking also.

Again….. like the tires wears, it would be wise to change all of them (after checking the tires treads wear,) this way the drive will be smoothly and safe.

The thread that I read was mentioning that the rear shocks would be changed the next day….. and later on confirmed.

Many of the members are doing an upgrade with the c6 Corvette regular or sport driving at their choice, as they are fid up to spend that much money for the so pseudo call MAG. shocks absorbers…. a simulator kit is also installed to fool the module for reconnised the new shocks type.

Be safe and replace the shocks as per their needs.

IAN

 

[long Tall Sally]

if one shock has excessive leakage or is locked up you can get by with two . replacing them in pairs front or rear. I replaced one bad one with a used one of equal wear (mileage) that the local dealer was going to wholesale .When it brought so little at the auction they kept it and sold locally. I have seen the car In the shop several times and no problem with the shocks. even with out seeing the fluid loss the metallic powder In the fluid does break down with age so they may be bad . Some people on here say the dealer can test them. I have never seen that happen anywhere. seems like it should be able to be done.

 

[IAN]

When changing shocks

James

Oops….. missing to send it with the post.

Here is a chart that tells when changing a leaking Mag. Shock.

IAN

 

[IAN]

Leaf springs c6/XLR

Hi members.

Attached is a chart of a search made recently on the options of the suspensions that are available on the c6 corvette.

The weights are on the chart, for someone that would like to up grade his XLR with the c6, as per his needs, his choice and its driving style.

There are 5 different leaf springs for the front suspension options fe1,fe2,fe3and on…. versus of only one for the XLR.
Same for the rear, were 6 spring are also available for the type desired, while again, there is only one for the XlR.

All have differents part number, that indicate that the rate spring lbs. are all differents, in my opinion since the XLR is heavier I would keep the present springs and I would go for the choice of the shocks absorbers of my choice….. a soft ride (or fe1 option).

I have ordered 4 KYP gas shocks all around, as they are similar to the OE on the c6 (fe1 option ) and has the features of the Bilstein B6 (b8) shocks at a better prices.

To be continued.

IAN

 

[long Tall Sally]

if you access the gm parts book you will find the xlr has had no less that 6 upgrades on the springs over the years. They could be due to mount failures, changes in options all sorts of reason as the cars have progressed. No one on here will ever know the reason as Gm will not say. we know also the shocks have changed numbers and rates at least 3-4 times . when they make a new year, new weights ,new tires they make new parts . Those new parts will usually work on older models but not 100% as they were intended for newer cars. I just know what actually changing the springs testing the mon a spring weight bench shows. if you buy 10 springs all the same number there is a 2% plus or minus change in rates due to manufacturing process. There is no one on here that can tell a 2% change on a car.
Ian I would love to hear you explain according to your charts why the rear spring weights are much higher than the front when the car weighs more on the front axle . the xlr is close to 49/51 the vette 50/50

here is one of many auto parts listings for a leaf spring. note it is from a corvette and yet application shows it fits a xlr. That is because a company called hollander has a cross reference of parts that interchange and have been proven to work on the models listed without any problems. They work with all the major manufactures to compile their list . thats how you can find a power steering pump for an xlr that also fits other Caddy models. its called interchange.

 

[IAN]

Simple question, simple answer.

Sally.

GM supersede many parts at any time of the year and of course on the new model year cars, for the simple reason for a better quality of the parts….for exemple, the XLR headlamps, that we know the quality was better but not good enough….. again.

The suspension spring had a recall for lite failures on the spring, over the years the spring were changes so as the part numbers.
The chart shown are from a GM parts supplier and the XLR (base model ) is showing only one part number ( superseded ?? one ) for each front and rear springs.

-/+2% accuracy of a spring lbs rate is acceptable for a street driving car but could be different for a racing car.

Your question is simple, that deserve a simple answer…. SAFE TRACTION,
like for the snow/ice tires in keeping the car on the road, now why dont you explain us the working functions of the rear spring components, i will be glad to tell you if your affirmations are acceptable.

All the corvette springs are suitable on the XLR however a different handling will occur and could not be what the customer ride really wants or it could get the car unsafe to drive.

Interchange parts are often not necessary the OE real specifications made by the after market parts supplier.

Any more questions…..

IAN..

 

[long Tall Sally]

hahahahahhahahaha no one on here can tell 2-5% change on the suspension part on the car. I am not talking race cars. I am talking about everyday street driven cars by average to better drivers. The V guys change the stock rear sway bar with the vette. that's a 30% stiffer bar and they can notice it. Installing a sway bar on a car without one results in a 25-30% better ride that can be felt. That's why a z51 rear sway bar to a z06 is not done as it is not noticeable.

I made no mention of aftermarket parts. Interchange by Hollander is not after market. It is interchange of factor Gm parts between models. They will tell you that an 04-08 front bumper is the same. they will tell you an 04-09 fender is the same with a note that says (09 without side vent). they will tell you an 04-09 door is the same with notes that you cannot install a complete door from model to model as the wiring harnesses and internals plus mirror are not the same. They work as I sated if you had read , with GM and repair sources to do the interchange. the corvette springs area n acceptable interchange with the XLR with no problems or change
SHow me the recall on the springs? I have a list of all Gm recalls In the USA I would love to see why they recalled them in Canada.

 

[IAN]

Simple question, simple answer.

Sally.

I have answer you previously to your question, can you please now answer me back at my question made from the previous tread.

Creating diversion is not fair, as we are away of the issue, get back to the subject.

IAN

 

[RONALD34275]

I have been following your discussion with Ian about suspension because I don't know about the subject.
I replaced my leaking mag shocks with Z06 and Caspers per your suggestions and the ride is very comfortable.
As far as sway bars go, I don't know what is on the car except that it is stock configuration.
I am a senior citizen. I am still learning the car and drive it very conservatively.
Should I change/add the sway bars?
Thanks to you and Ian for sharing your knowledge.

 

[IAN]

Sway bar

Ron.

The regular XLR dont have a rear sway bar, and if the front actual sway bar busings are fines, it is not necessry to up grate them, since your telling us that your style of driving is conservative.


Thanks

IAN

 

[James Landi]

Thank you Gentlemen for your thoughtful responses. Your experiences provide important guidance for XLR owners. Your input and narratives and accumulated wisdom are much appreciated. James

 

[long Tall Sally]

I have been following your discussion with Ian about suspension because I don't know about the subject.
I replaced my leaking mag shocks with Z06 and Caspers per your suggestions and the ride is very comfortable.
As far as sway bars go, I don't know what is on the car except that it is stock configuration.
I am a senior citizen. I am still learning the car and drive it very conservatively.
Should I change/add the sway bars?
Thanks to you and Ian for sharing your knowledge.

Ronald adding the rear sway bar is a good improvement .In Florida you dont have many curves except that good one between Arcadia and Brandenton. The rear sway bar really does nothing on the straight road. its mostly on turns that it keeps the car flat. Like getting on the interstate loops. if you are getting on or off you know how the car leans into the curve? with the rear sway bar it stays pretty flat. I am coming down to Sarasota soon if they slack up o nthe virus . I will bring one and install it and see what you think. it only take 1/2 hour In the drive way. I have not herd on anyone that installed on and did not like it. Even us old farts like to feel like we are in control of the car. haha