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Got rid of my Mag Ride Shocks!

Hi Members.

Enclosed are the istallation instructions made by Casper electronic part number 109096 modules kit to prevent some defect messages on the XLR cluster, for the installation of some after market shocks. additionals photos are enclosed to explain the installation.

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The next photo is the modules It self , the grey ones with 2 pins/cavities are to be put into the connector, removed from the solenoids (no longer required ) of each Mag.shocks.

The Black ones with 3 pins/cavities are to be put in the connectors removed from the suspension sensor.

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The following photo is the solenoid attached on the shock, it is of a rear XLR Mag.shock, that give you an idea of what it is.

s-l1600.jpg

The suspension sensor is a small round devise that its linkage is conected with the lower control arm. The connector has to be removed by pulling away the locking tab and then the black module 3 pins/cavities has to installed on the connector.

HTB1FCo5d8WD3KVjSZFsq6AqkpXaE.jpg
Here is a grey module installed on the connector, if you feel that it would not want to get in with a light pressure then turn it around and it should works, when you feel that its moving in then push it way in.
To secure it, use the tie wrap supposed included with the kit, (mine were not) when ordering it ask to make sure that they are really included.

20001217_140529.jpg

Now the black module installed

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Finally the job is completed.

The present methot I have used, is for a DIY with no hoist, or air gun ratchet....just some simple ordinary tools.

My next thread will be the road test.

IAN :blinzel: whala.
 
I'm a little confused; Simulators from Caspers website you say are $175 (+shipping), and from Bilstein $218 (+shipping), so I can save $43 dollars by buying the simulators from Caspers instead of Bilstein??, or do I lose that savings by paying two shipping costs; one to Bilstein for shocks, and one to Caspers for simulators? Is that right??
 
Did you install it all, (shocks and simulators) , or if you didn't what was to labor to have it all installed??
 
Fines shocks

They are all fine shocks its amatter of need and choices.

Koni was one the first ones to introduce a performance shocks, Billstein doest it also now and perhaps has some better marketing, the KYB shocks are Known of an after market for the OEM cars with a sport ride.

IAN :wave:
 
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parts suppliers.

Steeve.

Buying both products from the same parts supplier you perhaps could save money.

IAN:wave:
 
thanks guys for this great ongoing thread! thanks Randy..

just one quick question! how can I know if my hight ride sensors are broken or not working well?
 
FWIW - A full set of OEM ACDelco Mag shocks from Rock is about $1400 plus tax. For my 2004 XLR. Could not find anyone who could turn off the 80 MPH warning. Corvettes yes, XLR no. Just installed the new shocks.
 
FWIW - A full set of OEM ACDelco Mag shocks from Rock is about $1400 plus tax. For my 2004 XLR. Could not find anyone who could turn off the 80 MPH warning. Corvettes yes, XLR no. Just installed the new shocks.
if your light is on and you installed new shocks you will need to replace your suspension module. they go for 2000-2500 used and will most likely fail within a year. Thats the big problem. With a bad module your mag shocks do not work. They will be very dangerous to drive on thus the 80 mph light. The module sends signals to the shocks to adjust them. With a bad module you could be getting a signal but it will not change or adjust the shocks. you also could get a different signal for one side of the car based on how it was working when it went off. I am installing the z06 shocks for a member in the next couple of weeks and will let him tell how the car works .
 
Over a year and 15,000 miles on my new OEM style shocks via RockAuto - I'm really happy and they're holding up just fine. Buy once, cry once. I was 54 when I replaced them in my yard, on jack stands in July heat, in the Phoenix area. You can do it! The Corvette rear anti-sway bar is on as well and it's a well-mannered daily driver and a great handling car, even when pushed.

John B.
 
thanks guys for this great ongoing thread! thanks Randy..

just one quick question! how can I know if my hight ride sensors are broken or not working well?
I believe the sensors themselves may warn you via the Driver's Information Center (DIC, not kidding). Replacements are available via RockAuto. More likely, the ride height adjusters are bad, and also available through alternate sources (search on here). They have a rubber pad on the end of a bolt, sorta, and the rubber wears off and the bolt clicks, audible in slow-moving conditions.

John B.
 
I have 2 questions I’m hoping someone can answer (without producing another argument on this thread 🙄): (1). Has any forum member who personally owns an XLR-V successfully done this switch? I’m not looking for those who have done it on someone else’s car. I see Fireduck said the simulators don’t work on the V’s, wanted to follow up on that.
(2). Has anyone who has an ‘06 or later base successfully done this switch? If you did, did you use Bilstein B8’s & simulators? I see most of the posts are ‘04-‘05. For other years posted it’s not clear to me what was done.

By “successfully” I mean no warnings and no ride etc problems. I’m also interested in long term results as I saw the suggestion that tighter shocks might make up for other parts that have loosened up over time - but might also make such things loosen up more/reach their breaking point.

Thanks for any info you guys can provide!
 
I am a new forum member so I have just located this thread on replacing the magnetic shocks with regular shocks. I am wondering if there is any additional information pro or con on this subject. I just bought my 2005 XLR and I'm afraid I may have missed this problem. I have no clunking but I do have four oily shocks, some worse than others. My present game plan is to clean the shocks and monitor them for additional leakage before I decide to replace them. Like several people have said; It's hard to justify even the Rock auto parts price of $1500 for shock replacement on a 15 year old car. Thanks in advance
 
just buy the stock z06 Corvette shocks. you can get a set of take offs with no miles on them on ebay for 400$ and the sims for 200 .Add a sway bar for 125 and your ride will be as good to better than it ever was when new. I just road in a car with brand new Mags on it and it did not ride a bit better that I could tell. Mine with the sway bar was much flatter on the exit ramp and did not sway when changing lanes fast. Your suspension module has to be working to use the non mag shocks. I now have a work around for bad modules that will turn the dash light off.
I’m curious what is the workaround for the module. My issue is with the module not working. I am planning on replacing the shocks with the bilsteins and simulators. Even with my module not functioning the only error code I get is service ride control. My shocks are just not adjusting, but my speed is not limited.
 
Great thread....I noticed this seems to relate to 2005 and 2004 models....is the configeration the same for 2006 and later models and has anyone done this to later yrs....thanks
 
everything works the same on all years. 04/05 are the ones that the module goes bad on and they are no longer available .Used ones bring 2000 -2500 and they will fail again . its not just the water that causes them to fail .its time heat and use . corvettes have the same basic module located where they do not get wet and they still fail at a high rate. The module for 06-09 is available and even can be found used for 150 As they seldom fail. so cost wise you can still replace the mag shocks for not a whole lot more than the non mag and simulators. the mag shock part number have been upgraded a couple of times and by the 09 model where supposed to be better than 04/05 so if you replace your 06 with 09 shocks you are supposed to be getting a better shock. I cannot confirm this and doubt anyone would fell any difference
 
2005 XLR replaced front shocks with the ZO6 and used a bypass kit off of eBay with no codes or service indicators. Total it cost me about $200 and an afternoon of good times!
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those are known to fail within a few months so if your light comes on you may have to start replacing them . so did you just replace two shocks? that will be interesting to see how it works out as I have not known of anyone doing just two before. and I assume the shocks were bad with no light on? just to let others reading know . thanks
 
Yes. I only replaced the front 2 shocks in October and all is well. All the mag rides were/are worn out/wet but no light or service indication. She has 93k on her. The zo6 ride is good but not to stiff. I did get a 4 wheel alignment after at the dealer. Hopeful those bypass will last a good while. It’s not a daily and she’s garage kept. The rears are pretty bouncy so will get to them next. From what I’ve read and seen it appears the rears are a little more involved so I’ll have to do some more research. These threads are great info for sure.
 

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