05 XLR battery went dead now car is crazy...

[silkywilson]

So im back at it.. had the battery unhooked from the car but on the tender for a few days.. showed full charge, hooked it back up, and the alarm goes off.. for about 90 seconds the horns honking.. I did get a green light on the start button, but nothing more than that... I unhooked the negative battery lead for 30 minutes and put it back on the alarm sounded again... this time I got the red light on the start button... still nothing more... can the alarm be shutting everything down? and stopping it from starting? any way to bypass the alarm, without the Fof being recognized??

 

[Phil105]

LOLOL thanks for all the comments and Help.. and the Biggest issue I have is i am a GM man... The Club Coupe is SBC powered.. and I got my girlfriend out of her Ford (shes from a Ford family) into the XLR.. and it has so much tested my faith in GM with this whole ordeal.. I hope I can get some time under the hood of her today and see what I can make happen..

I believe you're experiencing "BLUE OVAL KARMA"!

 

[silkywilson]

LOL very likely.. I should be getting good Karama though I fixed the thing thats most wrong with that Blue Oval... LOL

 

[silkywilson]

Ok so another 30 minute cycle and im timing things now.. hooked up the battery and the alarm sounded for 30 seconds then stopped.. start button gave me a red light bottom left corner of it.. when I pus the start button for either start or accessory mode i hear clicky clickity clickity behind the passenger dash some where and then a short sound from the trunk of the car area.. 30 seconds later i hear the sound from the trunk again.. thats all that I am getting.. This time Im going to re attach the battery with the fob in the pocket and see if anything changes..

 

[Phil105]

LOL very likely.. I should be getting good Karama though I fixed the thing thats most wrong with that Blue Oval... LOL

Ha! Sounds like you need to apply that same "fix" to this one!

Good luck. This post is turning into a saga

 

[lextoy]

can you get the car to unlock via the fob or the door controls? sounds like not recognizing the fob and thus thinking the car is locked and being broken into every time. that would probably prevent the car from starting. no fob recognition=no start
call dealer and see if they can reprogram your fob without the car? based on the VIN.
i still think you deprogrammed your fob early on with the key in the rear bumper...
gonna need a 2nd fob anyway, buy a spare , and get dealer to program both.

 

[silkywilson]

yea.. still shouldent i get a "No Fob Found" prompt on the DIC if the fob is not programmed? next step is definitely the dealership though.. im going insane..

Car will not come out of Park, is this the same with everyone? Im not looking forward to it being drug in park onto a flatbed to get to the dealership.

Ive done the unhook the negative battery cable for 30 minutes at a time about 8 times today... no changes.. the first time I hooked it up I got the green light on the start button but thats it.. every time after that I got the red dot in the corner of the start button...

doors will not unlock in any way fob or inside car buttons

 

[Stella]

I still have two questions when you sit in the seat do you hear a buzzing noise? Theres a "seat switch" that activates. Two when you hit the brake do you get a clicking noise in the dash area? These both have to be activated to start. Especially a brake to shift out of gears. I also agree that I don't think the car is reading your fob.

 

[silkywilson]

Stella I get neither of those noises.. and when I depress the brake I still cant move the shifter out of park..

 

[Stella]

Stella I get neither of those noises.. and when I depress the brake I still cant move the shifter out of park..

The shifter won't move because its locked its not getting the brake signal. And your car isn't starting because its not reading someone in the seat and depressing the brake required to start. I would think your not getting the green light on the start button because of this. Now is the problem the module that reads the fob,or the fob itself,or jut a reprogram? But I would start with why you can't unlock the car. I think the car needs to read the fob before any other steps will activate.

 

[silkywilson]

Yea I believe it not recognizing the Fob is the root of everything.. once I open the door the alarm goes off and everything gets immobilized.. basically cut off at the knees.. cant even do the fob reprogramming at that point..

 

[David_B]

This thread has instructions how to disengage the shifter lockout. So your car won't need to be dragged onto the flatbed.

https://www.xlr-net.com/forums/cadillac-xlr-general-discussion/8252-towing.html

 

[lextoy]

when i am sitting in my car, and i have "good key" recognition, i press on the brake, and there is a definite click from the shift lever that allows me to pull the lever out of park. this is a known switch function btw the brake pedal and shift lever.
i can sit there and press up and down on the pedal, and make the switch click open and closed again, and again, and again.
are you getting that click? my guess is no. thus unable to pull it out of park.
so something in the electronics is interupting you before that step, my guess is the alarm is disabling the whole system.
and cant get the alarm off as no key is recognized to turn it off.
could try pulling a few fuses see if you can get the car to power up without the alarm going off immediately?
maybe in some partial live mode the computers will at least let you unlock the doors, shift out of P, recognize the fob to start the car?

 

[ccclarke]

The XLR has a solenoid that releases a pawl to allow movement of the shift lever when it's in PARK. It's activated when you step on the brake pedal - that's the noise you hear. To manually move the shift lever, you need to remove the shift knob by pulling down on the silver trim ring to expose the T-15 Torx fastener. Loosen the fastener and the pull the knob straight up. Using a trim removal tool or plastic spatula, pry the center console trim plate upwards, starting at the rear. Once the rear is loose, lift it further by pulling it backwards and upwards at the same time (it's sort of wedged under the IP center trim plate.) It won't lift completely off until you de-mate the connectors, which you don't really need to do anyway.

On the right side of the shift lever, you'll see the shift lock mechanism with attached solenoid. Lift the plastic (white) pawl up, and you're free to move the lever to NEUTRAL.

This problem may be related to a faulty RCDLR module or one that needs to be re-programmed to recognize the fob(s). When placed in the pocket, the previously-recognized fob should enable the car to be powered up. A tow towards a Tech 2 is most certainly recommended. --I'm assuming you have electrically (not visually) verified all applicable fuses, especially the RCDLR.


CC

 

[Army Al]

cclarke

Is there anyway you can park the car in the neutral gear without being powered or engine running?

 

[Stella]

cclarke

Is there anyway you can park the car in the neutral gear without being powered or engine running?

I would think that if you powered the car down,pressed on the brake and shifted into neutral it would go in. Might have to be in accessory mode The car needs to read the fob have someone in the seat and on the brake to move the shifter.

 

[ccclarke]

My previous post explains how. No power is required; you bypass the brake signal activating the shift lock solenoid by manually moving the solenoid latch.

CC

 

[Army Al]

My previous post explains how. No power is required; you bypass the brake signal activating the shift lock solenoid by manually moving the solenoid latch.

CC

What I like to do is this. Park my car in the neutral gear in my garage whenever not driving. If for whatever reason my car can not start or the cable snaps, I can push my car out of the garage and make an immediate right turn to position the car for towing without removing any panels/plates. Can this be simply done?

 

[Stella]

What I like to do is this. Park my car in the neutral gear in my garage whenever not driving. If for whatever reason my car can not start or the cable snaps, I can push my car out of the garage and make an immediate right turn to position the car for towing without removing any panels/plates. Can this be simply done?

Yeah two car/tire dollies. One under each rear wheel. That's how repo guys move the car blocking their target.

 

[David_B]

I was thinking that too. A good flatbed tow vehicle should have 2 dollies.

Yeah two car/tire dollies. One under each rear wheel. That's how repo guys move the car blocking their target.