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Transmission Range Switch / Invalid Range

jjsea55

Seasoned Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2011
Messages
285
Location
Pensacola, Florida
My XLR/V(s)
2006 Black Raven XLR-V, Shale interior
Situation with my '06 XLR-V:

October, 2011 - Vehicle reached 3rd or 4th gear and wouldn't shift higher... service engine indicator and service stabilitrac system messaged in the DIC. Stopped vehicle. Restarted and all smooth as normal except service engine light remained on until a few restarts were made. No further issues.

March 4, 2012 - Identical as above.

Both times I had Onstar perform a diagnostic and they claimed the code referred to "invalid range" involving transmission. Service Advisor at local dealer said his tech said the transmission range switch probably needs replacing, and would evaluate tomorrow. I'm sure he'll pop the codes with his Tech II. The switch change job is expected to take a half day, if needed.

Anyone had this type of incident before? My GMPP should pay for this... right? (minus deductible, of course) Thanks!
 
Sorry can't help, but I'm just getting use to the car and seems different than use too. When drivin at like 30 or so say your resting your foot on the gas and trying to stay at a set speed. If you give it a touch more gas is it suppose to feel like it's catching up first then you actually feel the increase in speed. It feels like even though your not slowing down that there's a gap between giving it gas and engaging the torque converter? Like I said the car is new to me I don't know if it's a GM trans. Thing or just feels different than use too.
 
Sorry can't help, but I'm just getting use to the car and seems different than use too. When drivin at like 30 or so say your resting your foot on the gas and trying to stay at a set speed. If you give it a touch more gas is it suppose to feel like it's catching up first then you actually feel the increase in speed. It feels like even though your not slowing down that there's a gap between giving it gas and engaging the torque converter? Like I said the car is new to me I don't know if it's a GM trans. Thing or just feels different than use too.
Keep in mind that the transmission does not disengage the torque converter until the brakes are kit (I'm not sure if I am using correct terminology, but the car is designed to "engine brake" when you take your foot off of the gas - until you actually touch the brakes). If you watch your tach, you will see if stay up in the RPM's until the brake pedal is hit, then it drops to idle.

Stella - if you want to learn more about how the car was designed and how it differs from other production cars, there is a very good book (by John McCormick). It is out of print now, but we see them show up on eBay every once in a while.

I know this doesn't answer the original question, but thought I'd chime in. As far as shifting being delayed, it could just be either a stuck switch, or you are driving right at that breaking point. If I am driving around town and I am going around 40mph or so, I will pop it in MANUAL mode and manually shift up, to drop the RPM's and improve my gas mileage (the Owners Manual actually suggests that, I believe). Hope this helps. I would imagine the GMPP covers the switch replacement.
 
I believe the reason the car feels like the transmission it is waiting to "hook up" so to speak when you get back to the gas after a slow down, when in, lets say 4th gear, is that it is what is actually happening. When you are in normal drive mode and in an intermediate gear (with the 6 speed trans) if you back off, the transmission shifts into 6th gear to save fuel. When you get back to the gas, the trans shfts back to the appropriate gear, presumably 4th again. The only way to avoid this, is to slide into manual mode and shift manually, then the gear will stay selected until, either you up/down shift, or go so slow it will automatically down shift. Nothing to do with the torque converter.

At least that is how I understand it, reading the various descriptions about the 6 speed trans. in the 06 V, which I have one of.

Rusty 06 V



Keep in mind that the transmission does not disengage the torque converter until the brakes are kit (I'm not sure if I am using correct terminology, but the car is designed to "engine brake" when you take your foot off of the gas - until you actually touch the brakes). If you watch your tach, you will see if stay up in the RPM's until the brake pedal is hit, then it drops to idle.

Stella - if you want to learn more about how the car was designed and how it differs from other production cars, there is a very good book (by John McCormick). It is out of print now, but we see them show up on eBay every once in a while.

I know this doesn't answer the original question, but thought I'd chime in. As far as shifting being delayed, it could just be either a stuck switch, or you are driving right at that breaking point. If I am driving around town and I am going around 40mph or so, I will pop it in MANUAL mode and manually shift up, to drop the RPM's and improve my gas mileage (the Owners Manual actually suggests that, I believe). Hope this helps. I would imagine the GMPP covers the switch replacement.
 
Transmission Range Switch was replaced Friday (described on paperwork as the "transmission manual shift shaft switch assembly"). This is an internal device and required replacing the tranny fluid, as well. A $51 device, $46 in fluid, and $133 labor brought the total to almost $230. He also reprogrammed the stabilitrac system to flush the error codes it was generating when this event happened (additional $35). My cost due to GMPP was 53.75 (they charge the customer TAX on the deductible ; )

Took her for a nice beach cruise today with no issues, rolling past the 10k ownership miles mark since acquiring her 2/19/11.
 
Transmission Range Switch was replaced Friday (described on paperwork as the "transmission manual shift shaft switch assembly"). This is an internal device and required replacing the tranny fluid, as well. A $51 device, $46 in fluid, and $133 labor brought the total to almost $230. He also reprogrammed the stabilitrac system to flush the error codes it was generating when this event happened (additional $35). My cost due to GMPP was 53.75 (they charge the customer TAX on the deductible ; )

Took her for a nice beach cruise today with no issues, rolling past the 10k ownership miles mark since acquiring her 2/19/11.

Probably not a bad time to change the fluid anyway. Something I need to do on mine soon.
 
Probably not a bad time to change the fluid anyway. Something I need to do on mine soon.
I was talking to Bruce (Cadillac Tech) yesterday about whether I should change my tranny fluid or not, since I have over 167K miles on my '05 XLR. I know there is some debate on changing the fluid regularly, or leave it alone, if you haven't changed it. I might change it, to upgrade the fluid to the latest transmission fluid... Maybe synthetic fluid.
Opinions?
 
IMHO, with two failures immediately after changing automatic transmission fluid after 50K miles, is that if the car has 50K +/- miles do not change the fluid. I would say changing the flluid at 16K miles is safe.

Rusty 06 V


I was talking to Bruce (Cadillac Tech) yesterday about whether I should change my tranny fluid or not, since I have over 167K miles on my '05 XLR. I know there is some debate on changing the fluid regularly, or leave it alone, if you haven't changed it. I might change it, to upgrade the fluid to the latest transmission fluid... Maybe synthetic fluid.
Opinions?
 
trans flush

I have been told back when I used to own a`93 Allante, not to have the trans flush. Drain and change the fluid ok but, don`t even flush the box. There is too much of a chance of pushing dirt from the flush machine when it used last or, stirring up gunk from your own transmission. Go to the Allante forums and read about all the transmission failures that happen on a perfectly good running trans after the owner had it flushed. I won`t do it......drain and change.
 

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