My 05 xlr seems to have a rough ride ever since I bought it. Unfortunately, where I am from, there isn't another xlr to drive to compare. It seems that mine is very stiff and not a soft ride as I expected it would or should be. Almost like the shocks are heavy duty or something. Nothing is showing on the DIC to indicate any problems. Any suggestions as to what to look for. Would a Tech 2 detect what may be the problem?
Thanks for any help offered.
Larry
I hate to mention this but have you had anyone crawl under there and check to see if the factory stops are still there (they are supposed to be removed on delivery). Someone on here had your same complaint and found out these stops were still on the shocks which kept them from fully retracting.
Any chance you have a picture of said bolts? or maybe a detailed description of the location.
I guess I need to take this one given I've swapped out all my sways for ZR1s and springs for Z06. The spring is traverse (i.e., going from one wheel to the other) made of fiberglass with molded rubber central brace points and a #10 bolt with a pad on each end used to adjust the ride height.
The whole spring:

(my Z06 rear spring. Comparatively, the Z06 has less bend in it - See my
Suspension Thread here)
Looking out toward the wheel from the center of the rear axle you see the spring is the wide piece on the upper right of this picture and the greasy mess below the end of it is actually the pad from the lowering bolt that someone lowered as far as it would go.
On the ends are the adjustment bolts:

The first is completely extended, the second is completely retracted. So you see there is about 2" of total adjustment available, but the OEM setting only leaves about 1 1/4" for lowering.
The OEM lowering bolt is one piece with a #10 head on one end and a rubber pad glued to the other.See the top bolt on the following picture.
The bottom bolt and pad of the above picture is the replacement HardBar lowering bolt. The Hardbar Lowering bolts are much different and gives you much more lowering capability. First, the pad is much shorter. I believe the OEM pads on the front of my car were almost 1 1/2" tall, whereas the rear pad were 1 1/4". The pad on the HardBar is a 1/2" tall. The Hardbar is also setup differently in that the bolt and pad are two pieces, making it easier to install.
What I like most about the HardBar is the head of the bolt is a #13, so I can use a bigger wrench with a longer handle and apply more moment force to turn the damn thing. What many people find out is that if they've never touched the adjusting bolt its probably fused to the spring (I had one each front and back that were fused - another reason I replaced them). If that bolt is fused a #10 socket wrench will just break either the socket or the wrench when you try to turn it. I broke three sockets trying! The instructions of all the replacements say to apply anti-seize grease annually to prevent this. If one is seized all you can do is leave it where its set or replace the whole spring and adjusting bolts.
Lastly, there is another manufacturer making lowering bolts. They look like the following picture:
My problem with these is although they have a very short pad, the top bolt is still a #10 head and easily possible to strip.
Any more questions - fire away!