replaced battery now car will not start

[Robert501]

My battery was dead and had it replaced, also replaced the batteries in both key fobs. Now the car will not start and it doesn't recognize the key fobs. What might be the problem and what do I need to do?

 

[justdennis]

Try programing the new transmitter, the procedure is in the owners manual in section 2, matching a new transmitter to your vehicle without a recognized transmitter.

 

[xlrlist01]

My battery was dead and had it replaced, also replaced the batteries in both key fobs. Now the car will not start and it doesn't recognize the key fobs. What might be the problem and what do I need to do?

Assuming the key fobs were working until you changed the key fob battery, make sure you put the key fob battery in the right way up.
Make sure the key fob batteries are very clean and the contacts are also clean.
Do you have a VOM? Make sure the key fob new batteries are working. It sometimes happens that you can get dead ones.
Also, if the key fob battery is flat, there is a slot in the glove-box where if you put the fob there, it will be recognized and your X will start.
I assume you know the new main car battery is good and correctly installed.

 

[rexster314]

 

[mickeytee]

Thats a good one. I actually went to stick the cable on like that in the bright sun. Haha

 

[Robert501]

Thanks, but that is not the problem. I put either key in the slot in the glove compart, press start and I hear a clicking sound. If I press the "Off" side of the switch and remove my foot from the break the car will start and run. Any suggestions??????

 

[mickeytee]

Check the brake light switch . i think there are two on the pedal.

 

[Robert501]

Thanks. I have a mobile mechanic service that has looked at it, Justin is a very honest person. He has spence hours researching this problem and only charged a service call to replace the battery. Justin said he thought it was either 1) switch in the break, 2) ignition switch, or 3) have the electronics reset and he did not have the equipment to make the diagnostic check.

 

[xlrlist01]

Thanks. I have a mobile mechanic service that has looked at it, Justin is a very honest person. He has spence hours researching this problem and only charged a service call to replace the battery. Justin said he thought it was either 1) switch in the break, 2) ignition switch, or 3) have the electronics reset and he did not have the equipment to make the diagnostic check.

The ignition switches do fail. Pressing the bottom half of the switch and get a crank and engine start is indicative of multiple problems. Suggest replace ignition switch. Do a search here, the topic came up moderately recently.

The brake switch is more complex than you might expect and has to be calibrated. The brake switch can also fail. You need a Tech-2 to calibrate it. Fitting a new one is not especially difficult.

There is a problem in some XLRs with corrosion in the BCM affecting both the brake switch circuit and the trunk deck release circuit. With the main battery disconnected (doors open first!!), remove both the harness ends and clean them with contact cleaner. The harness ends have a blue 'latch' which swings up and over, pulling the plug out of the BCM. There are two.

 

[BusaMan]

I’m having similar issues. I MAY have posted them in the wrong place, tho. <https://www.xlr-net.com/forums/posts/93358/bookmark> Sure would love to get a line on how to fix it. How tough is it to: 1) replace the START switch?, and 2) get a replacement? What’s the part number for the ignition switch?

 

[lextoy]

hi all , let me look to see if i ever posted about this from when i swapped my battery...
same exact thig happened. eventually after multiple attempts to "wake up" the car
it worked. and never happened again. just keep trying to open close the door, lock and unlock the car with the fob, put the key in the special slot in the glove box. leave it in there for 10 sec before you try to do anything. etc
this has happened to me when i put in my new battery AND anytime i unhook the battery for work etc. now it doesnt freak me out anymore. i just cant recall what trick resurrected the ignition recognition system.

from an old thread where i was warning about the trouble i had when replacing the battery...
"when i replaced my dead battery it took me 1/2 hour to get the car to recognize any key fob again. so dont panic.
after multiple door opens and closes, pressing the brake pedal, locking and unlocking with the fob, putting the fob into the glove box slot, about a dozen attempts in various order...
eventually it recognized and restarted. after that havent had a fob problem since.

i would go for a nice drive to get everything warmed up and recharged.
then after 45 min would cycle the top. of course with the car running."

 

[lextoy]

i was reading today , but cant find it now, brake pedal recalibration/relearn can solve the weird ignition switch /start with brake pedal issues.
if it keeps happening, replace brake switch and do relearn should be permanent fix.

 

[BusaMan]

Thanks for the reply. I had the problem start BEFORE I changed the car battery out. I think the 4-year-old Optima yellow top was getting a little tired, because I was having to rev up the engine to about 2,200 rpm to get the top to work right. SO, I changed out the battery. It didn’t fix the START issues. New fob battery, same problems. If I keep messing w/ the START switch, open/close the door and/or putting the fob in the slot, it will eventually tell me to depress brake pedal to start. When I just tap the brake pedal, and nothing else at that point, it starts!. I’m headed for the dealer on Monday. They have re-hired their XLR-trained tech back again, so I’m hopeful that your info and Marvin’s expertise (the tech) will get this fixed. My car is kind of overdue for "relearns", sorta like its owner.

 

[lextoy]

From an old thread here...

Do the brake lights work correctly? Ie, do they come on with pressure on the brake pedal and go off when you take your foot off? If not, consider a fault in the brake pedal position sensor and/or circuit. The BPPS can be recalibrated with a Tech-2. If you have a problem with the BPPS or the circuit to the BCM, you won't get crank and you can't get out of park.

 

[BusaMan]

"Lex", the brake lights work strangely. When the green circle (halo) shows on the START switch, depressing the brake pedal lights up all 3 rear lights. When the ACC light is on, the brake lights also work normally. When the red light is on, the brake lights don’t work at all, UNLESS the DIC message to "depress brake pedal to start" shows, in which case the brake lights are on all by themselves and it’s not necessary to do anything else but tap the brake pedal and the car will start. If the message does not come up, the brake lights are OFF, and won’t come on when you DO step on the brake pedal. I had about a 50% success rate by the following pattern: 1) enter car w/ key fob, (green halo light is lit), 2) Depress brake pedal (brake lights go ON) and press the START halo (lots of "crickets" in the dash, but no engine start), 3) press ACC (radio lights up), 4) within a couple of seconds press ACC again (if DIC message shows up, the brake lights will turn on by themselves and tapping the brakes WILL start the engine), 5), if no message, open/close the door and repeat the series 2-3 times. I found that I don’t have to involve the glove box slot. Curiouser and curiouser...

 

[BusaMan]

UPDATE… The XLR-trained tech in Colorado Springs has determined that the weird starting behavior described above is, in fact, due to a faulty START ignition switch. He tested the switch, and found it fails an internal logic check. I’ll know for certain in a week, after he’s replaced the switch. FYI

 

[mickeytee]

One of the few things owners can do. Smc corvette has them and it takes less than 30 minutes to replace.

 

[thenderson]

Just seeing this thread now. Certainly sounds like the start button is bad. Easy to replace and under a hundred bucks for the part. Mine was bad at 29,000 miles. Would push the button and get nothing, take foot off the brake and car would start. Thirty minute repair and has worked just fine ever since.

 

[BusaMan]

Thanks for the responses, guys. It’s too late for me to try to replace it myself; i.e., the dealer has ordered the replacement switch thru eBay. I really appreciate the pointer to SMC Corvette. How involved IS the process of swapping the switch out? I think they’re planning on charging me 1.5 hours for the task, at the dealership.

 

[thenderson]

Thanks for the responses, guys. It’s too late for me to try to replace it myself; i.e., the dealer has ordered the replacement switch thru eBay. I really appreciate the pointer to SMC Corvette. How involved IS the process of swapping the switch out? I think they’re planning on charging me 1.5 hours for the task, at the dealership.

I did mine earlier this summer and I don't think it took more than a half hour. And I was intentionally slow and careful since I'd never taken that apart before and wanted to be sure to not break anything. I would assume a dealer might have a minimum charge of an hour. Maybe the other half hour includes diagnostics?