2008 XLR Neither door will open from inside or outside?

[kclements]

Hey everyone!

I am working on a 2008 XLR. I have managed to fix a bunch of problems already.

(1) Headlights did not work. Found both head light ballasts were bad. Replaced with used ones and that fixed the issue.

(2) Climate control was stuck at 78 deg and blowing full blast. Buttons would not respond to being pressed. Removed and inspected and found either coffee or soda pop spilled on the front of it and got inside and caused one of the buttons to be stuck in the on position all the time. Cleaned up spilled liquid and climate control works good again.

(3) top was having problems going up and down. lubricated all hinges and re-indexed windows and re-synched top with Tech2 and everything works good again.

Here is the one I am having problems with

(4) Neither door will open from inside or outside . I replaced both outside door pads with new GM parts. I initially tried cleaning them but only one worked after I cleaned it. They are not that expensive so I figured I would just put new ones on it. As a side note I ended up using the one I fixed on the trunk since its switch was bad as well.

When the door switch is pressed on either the inside or outside of the door, Left or Right side, the window for the side being pressed drops as it should but the door does not open. Tech 2 scanner shows that the switches are working when pressed. The lock and unlock button seems to work correctly as well and the LED on the door reflects the lock or unlocked status on the car.

Using the function in the TECH 2 to open the door does not work either.

I have removed the door lock mechanism on the drivers side and tried replacing it with a new one and that did not help . It swill would not open the door.

The battery is good and fully charged, The car starts and runs good. There are no codes currently when scanned.

At this point I am lost on what to try next. Any help would be appreciated.

Regards,

Kevin

 

[nvme]

Hey everyone!

I am working on a 2008 XLR. I have managed to fix a bunch of problems already.

(1) Headlights did not work. Found both head light ballasts were bad. Replaced with used ones and that fixed the issue.

(2) Climate control was stuck at 78 deg and blowing full blast. Buttons would not respond to being pressed. Removed and inspected and found either coffee or soda pop spilled on the front of it and got inside and caused one of the buttons to be stuck in the on position all the time. Cleaned up spilled liquid and climate control works good again.

(3) top was having problems going up and down. lubricated all hinges and re-indexed windows and re-synched top with Tech2 and everything works good again.

Here is the one I am having problems with

(4) Neither door will open from inside or outside . I replaced both outside door pads with new GM parts. I initially tried cleaning them but only one worked after I cleaned it. They are not that expensive so I figured I would just put new ones on it. As a side note I ended up using the one I fixed on the trunk since its switch was bad as well.

When the door switch is pressed on either the inside or outside of the door, Left or Right side, the window for the side being pressed drops as it should but the door does not open. Tech 2 scanner shows that the switches are working when pressed. The lock and unlock button seems to work correctly as well and the LED on the door reflects the lock or unlocked status on the car.

Using the function in the TECH 2 to open the door does not work either.

I have removed the door lock mechanism on the drivers side and tried replacing it with a new one and that did not help . It swill would not open the door.

The battery is good and fully charged, The car starts and runs good. There are no codes currently when scanned.

At this point I am lost on what to try next. Any help would be appreciated.

Regards,

Kevin

Just a stupid idea; have you try the manual door opener? Inside the trunk on the drivers side there is a compartment on the padded side that comes out. Take off the door panel and there is an emergency pull that will unlock the door. Maybe that is your problem, might be stuck etc. Best of luck

 

[nvme]

Hey everyone!

I am working on a 2008 XLR. I have managed to fix a bunch of problems already.

(1) Headlights did not work. Found both head light ballasts were bad. Replaced with used ones and that fixed the issue.

(2) Climate control was stuck at 78 deg and blowing full blast. Buttons would not respond to being pressed. Removed and inspected and found either coffee or soda pop spilled on the front of it and got inside and caused one of the buttons to be stuck in the on position all the time. Cleaned up spilled liquid and climate control works good again.

(3) top was having problems going up and down. lubricated all hinges and re-indexed windows and re-synched top with Tech2 and everything works good again.

Here is the one I am having problems with

(4) Neither door will open from inside or outside . I replaced both outside door pads with new GM parts. I initially tried cleaning them but only one worked after I cleaned it. They are not that expensive so I figured I would just put new ones on it. As a side note I ended up using the one I fixed on the trunk since its switch was bad as well.

When the door switch is pressed on either the inside or outside of the door, Left or Right side, the window for the side being pressed drops as it should but the door does not open. Tech 2 scanner shows that the switches are working when pressed. The lock and unlock button seems to work correctly as well and the LED on the door reflects the lock or unlocked status on the car.

Using the function in the TECH 2 to open the door does not work either.

I have removed the door lock mechanism on the drivers side and tried replacing it with a new one and that did not help . It swill would not open the door.

The battery is good and fully charged, The car starts and runs good. There are no codes currently when scanned.

At this point I am lost on what to try next. Any help would be appreciated.

Regards,

Kevin

 

[nvme]

Just a stupid idea; have you try the manual door opener? Inside the trunk on the drivers side there is a compartment on the padded side that comes out. Take off the door panel and there is an emergency pull that will unlock the door. Maybe that is your problem, might be stuck etc. Best of luck

 

[kclements]

I can manually open the doors from the inside manual releases on the floor of the driver and passenger sides. I have not tried to open the drivers door from the trunk manually. Not sure how the trunk door release would effect the passenger door? But I will try it out.

 

[xlrlist01]

Hey everyone!

I am working on a 2008 XLR. I have managed to fix a bunch of problems already.

(1) Headlights did not work. Found both head light ballasts were bad. Replaced with used ones and that fixed the issue.

(2) Climate control was stuck at 78 deg and blowing full blast. Buttons would not respond to being pressed. Removed and inspected and found either coffee or soda pop spilled on the front of it and got inside and caused one of the buttons to be stuck in the on position all the time. Cleaned up spilled liquid and climate control works good again.

(3) top was having problems going up and down. lubricated all hinges and re-indexed windows and re-synched top with Tech2 and everything works good again.

Here is the one I am having problems with

(4) Neither door will open from inside or outside . I replaced both outside door pads with new GM parts. I initially tried cleaning them but only one worked after I cleaned it. They are not that expensive so I figured I would just put new ones on it. As a side note I ended up using the one I fixed on the trunk since its switch was bad as well.

When the door switch is pressed on either the inside or outside of the door, Left or Right side, the window for the side being pressed drops as it should but the door does not open. Tech 2 scanner shows that the switches are working when pressed. The lock and unlock button seems to work correctly as well and the LED on the door reflects the lock or unlocked status on the car.

Using the function in the TECH 2 to open the door does not work either.

I have removed the door lock mechanism on the drivers side and tried replacing it with a new one and that did not help . It swill would not open the door.

The battery is good and fully charged, The car starts and runs good. There are no codes currently when scanned.

At this point I am lost on what to try next. Any help would be appreciated.

Regards,

Kevin

My workshop manual has pages of diagnostics on this, at 8-181. Wiring diagrams 8-128. The RCDLR sends signals to the door latches, looks like on A (Lt-GN/BK, 5703) and B (D-BU, 5876), suggest you trace the signals from there.

 

[kclements]

xlrlist01 thanks for the info.

Does it tell you what signal I should be expecting? +12v, switched ground or something else?

 

[xlrlist01]

I'm not at all sure.
What appears to be the case, is the BCM provides a voltage (could be 12v, could be 5v), which it can disable (which will prevent the latch from working). This is on pin 3 of the door latch (TN, 694 for driver), pin 8 (TN, 294 for passenger) or perhaps can also switch to ground. (BCM Connector 3, A1 driver, A3 passenger). Ie, BCM can provide a ground, open or 12/5v to that circuit.
The RCDLR can do the same (ie ground, open or 12/5v. I'm guessing that when your X is off, the BCM is providing either ground or power and the RCDLR, when it sees the signal, does the opposite for a moment.

I'm not sure, but there is a possible switch inside the door latch which might be the door relelase from inside the car, however, that doesn't make complete sense. It might be some kind of protection and is usually closed (that is how it is drawn). Edit, it isn't, might be an automatic breaker.

The external door handle switches are handled by the RCDLR, as are the internal door releases. Looks like they all provide a brief ground.

RCDLR C1: R: Driver exterior (L-GN/BK 394), E: Driver interior (OR 5880), F: Pass interior (PU 5877), N Pass exterior (L-BU 395).

The two signals in the RCDLR are called 'Latch enable control', which suggests they provide a 12/5v signal most of the time and the BCM is doing the opposite. A - passenger (D-BU 5876), B - driver (L-GN/BK 5703). I don't agree with this, nah, the BCM will be providing the power most of the time (or ground most of the time) and the RCDLR will provide a brief gound or brief power. Given the name, I'll guess the RCDLR provides brief power and the BCM mostly provides a ground.

Reading the extensive diagnostics on the door latch will help find the problem.

Are you good with a VOM? Make sure it has a high internal resistance when on Volts.

 

[kclements]

"Reading the extensive diagnostics on the door latch will help find the problem."

Unfortunately I do not have a copy of the GM factory service manual. I have tried to find one online to purchase but both times I purchased one, they were not the factory service manual. I think they were from Mitchell repair , despite the fact that they were listed as factory service manuals. So if someone knows where a good online copy of the service manual is , let me know.

yeah, using a VOM/DVM is no problem. I have been using my fluke meter but kind of in the dark without a troubleshooting procedure.

 

[xlrlist01]

As a general design principle, it is usually better to provide a ground with a brief signal to voltage (where possible). Hence I suspect the BCM usually provides a ground and the RCDLR will provide a brief pulse of power. It would be no surprise for both the BCM and RCDLR to be providing ground most of the time and either can provide that brief pulse as I assume the latch is a solenoid. Assuming so, it might not matter which way the current flows. All this is me guessing how it might have been designed. What I haven't found is a signal between the BCM and the RCDLR (doesn't mean there isn't one), but supposing there isn't, then having grounds at both ends makes sense, allowing either to command a door latch release signal, and either to prevent a door latch release signal too (ie, doors locked).

I've provided the pin-outs, so hopefully you can probe into those with your DVM. DVMs are ok, but are not always that good at spotting a transient, where a basic VOM will 'kick' the needle during a brief pulse.

Fluke gear is good and should be able to spot a pulse.

 

[xlrlist01]

I'm not completely convinced by this, I have the full manual and mine is two volumes, not four, has a different cover too.

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These manuals will save you money in repairs/service. A must have if you own one of these vehicles.

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This is the cover I recognize, but too many volumes, maybe it was reprinted into smaller volumes as mine are too big really.

2004 Cadillac XLR Convertible Shop Service Repair Manual Set 4.6L V8 RWD | eBay

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Printing the GM and Cadillac logos on products that are not by Cadillac would be fraud.

 

[justdennis]

Are you sure your key fob is working, with a good battery? Also, have you tried turning off the passive lock function?

 

[mickeytee]

The two volumn sets of manuals do not include all the infirmation the four or 5 set does. However almost two manuals or on engine rebuilding and transmission differential rebuilding. Tons if infirmation that i bet has never been used by anyone. Simple stuff like we need to know is not in the manuals. The emergency trunk cable just works the drivers sice so you can get in the car.

There are two small but may be important differences in the trunk button and the door buttons. I buy new door , make these changes and offer them for the trunk. Its one of the things it took me a long time to find out so the 5$ pcharge for doinn it is avservice people have tompay for.
The lower diir hinges sometimes wear that causes the doir to drop. Open the door, manualky set the latch to closed and see if either button rekeases it. Like a poster above says its a very complicated system of controls for some reaon and without a manual to tell you what steps to take ,it can be very hard to figure out. I think a new door lock has to be programned to the bcm . ill look to see and if i find a section in the factory manual ill share

 

[mickeytee]

As far as manuals go. You need the yeat for your car. 05 will cover 04-05 but 04 does not have the 05 changes 06-07 are very similiar and cover a lot of 04-05 but not some important specific information. 08 covers 06-07 and 08. 09 cover 09 and most of 06-08 with a few things different but not the important stuff. Mostly trim and body pars and controls

 

[Bakertech]

Hey everyone!

I am working on a 2008 XLR. I have managed to fix a bunch of problems already.

(1) Headlights did not work. Found both head light ballasts were bad. Replaced with used ones and that fixed the issue.

(2) Climate control was stuck at 78 deg and blowing full blast. Buttons would not respond to being pressed. Removed and inspected and found either coffee or soda pop spilled on the front of it and got inside and caused one of the buttons to be stuck in the on position all the time. Cleaned up spilled liquid and climate control works good again.

(3) top was having problems going up and down. lubricated all hinges and re-indexed windows and re-synched top with Tech2 and everything works good again.

Here is the one I am having problems with

(4) Neither door will open from inside or outside . I replaced both outside door pads with new GM parts. I initially tried cleaning them but only one worked after I cleaned it. They are not that expensive so I figured I would just put new ones on it. As a side note I ended up using the one I fixed on the trunk since its switch was bad as well.

When the door switch is pressed on either the inside or outside of the door, Left or Right side, the window for the side being pressed drops as it should but the door does not open. Tech 2 scanner shows that the switches are working when pressed. The lock and unlock button seems to work correctly as well and the LED on the door reflects the lock or unlocked status on the car.

Using the function in the TECH 2 to open the door does not work either.

I have removed the door lock mechanism on the drivers side and tried replacing it with a new one and that did not help . It swill would not open the door.

The battery is good and fully charged, The car starts and runs good. There are no codes currently when scanned.

At this point I am lost on what to try next. Any help would be appreciated.

Regards,

Kevin

I also have 2008 XLR. Just replaced the ECM. I was amazed it was still available WJ12X10462. My left door became problematic and I finally cycled the Lock Doors button on the Drivers door many times. The doors now continue to work as they should. My Trunk lid opens but will not stay OPEN. Works OK wheh Roof is raised or lowered. Anyone?

 

[mickeytee]

When you say trunk wont stay open does the pump run and close it or does it just fall? You could have a leaking solinoid in the pump. If you open the trunk and it falls no big deal. But id opening the top and it starts to close, major problem so tgsts why there is two circuits on the top control module. The manual stop switch works for just the trunk operation. The potentiometer. Controls the functions to hold it vully open in the top function. If your gas struts are bad not holding the trunk up then you are over working the pump. Failure is in the future.

 

[Bakertech]

The pump does not seem to be running. It just slowly closes.

 

[mickeytee]

Then you need the two gas filled shocks.not hard to change and about 45$ . if they are good you should be able to lift the trunk half way and it stay.

 

[Bakertech]

I will try that in the near future. I believe the left one is more difficult to change than the right one. Not sure. Have you done it?

 

[mickeytee]

Yes. The little tiny timit screw on the trunk hing removed kets you ooen itbhigher to bevablevto snap it on.you just need a long thin blade screwdriver to release the bottom clip. Since a dealer charges 100$ to install them, even if you buy the screwdriver at harbor freight for 8$ you are ahead of the game