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"Service Ride Control" ??

I made my own resistors they were 1.5ohm 100 watt, but never installed. I'll keep them as backup. The resistors were from Amazon and were like 13 dollars for 5!!. Problem was the plug ends. Luckily i had 6 plugs from the burned up Casper's!! I liked the kit ones from m&p as they looked as big as the ones I made, and have a lifetime warranty, emailed the guy, he said they would work fine, and if any issues he would send out replacements. Kinda finished mine the same day his arrived, so went with his stuff, cuz he said they work for the XLR. Here pics of mine. Kinda proud of what I was able to solder up👍
 

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If you have the 80 mph light on then you have a failed suspension module.ive only seen that on the 04-05 models where the module in the trunk gets wet. If you have an 07 with a light on tbe sims are not going to repair that so if you are burning them up id really watch for melted wires. The capers are much higher rateings than the ones i used years ago that where i think 1 ohm 12 watt and they lasted fine. if you installed big resistors then its because yoiur module is shorted out and sending signals when it should not. Glad you got it work for you.but id really keep an eye on it . the first ones i did with resistors from radio shack are about the size of a tiny inline fuse and dont even get hot to the touch. I wired them in line and wrapped with heat tape and thats been 7 years ago and 60,000 miles.on an 04 but the module was working.
 
I never had any suspension codes or warning messages until the shop took my mag ride struts off and installed Bilsteins and only half the Casper's kit. So I don't think the module is bad, unless it got messed up when the first set of Casper's resistors got fried. Since then I have been trying with new Casper's, and 3 failed after 10 minutes driving. The ride height resistors are on and working, but the strut resistors still failed. Now with the new kit, big resistors, 150 miles, no failure. 100 mile drive and resistors are cool to the touch. I cleaned up the rear grounds, will do the front grounds when I get back from vacation. I see on the tech 2 the ride high readings are a steady 2.22v and they never modulate as that's the resistor plug signal now, while the strut output goes from zero to 60 % depending on how hard I corner. When the Casper's were on and working for a little bit, they modulated up and down. But when I got the service suspension message, they were dead, at zero %. So I think with living resistors, module is working. It pulls ride height, speed, yaw, and steering angle data to send a % to the strut, so even with the ride height resistors steady at 2.22v the module is still active and sending voltage (measured in % here) to the strut resistor. I can't imagine them changing out the brakes and mag ride, messed up my wiring and I got a short all of a sudden. All visible wiring and plugs for the struts and ride height has been inspected by me like 4 times already, haha, and I'm surprised that it's in pretty good condition for it's age. If it's a bad module or a short, Time will reveal. I reset everything with the tech2, and now 2 days and 150 miles. No new messages. Not limited to 80. Happy Caddy. I did read a lot of Vette guys sat the Casper's don't last, they really recommend deleting the f55 via the tech2. Unfortunately on the XLR, that's not an option. So we have to fake out the module forever with resistors. LOTS of caddy guys have the same problem we do, all the SUVs, sedans etc have mag ride available. So there's a ton of info on all the caddy sites about using resistors to trick the module. That's where I got the info for 1 to 3ohm, 100watt, then I found this kit on eBay and Amazon. A few reviews from Corvette guys and even 2 from Cadillac XLR. So gave up on Casper's and went with these.
 
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Im not getting what you are saying. The whole idea of the simulators is to trick the system. What you are doing is telling the module the car is ready and its sitting still. Driving it should not show any change in those readings.the sim just tells the module im working but idle no input no output.. Moving the car does not change that.the signal to the shocks does not change. you have eliminated any input.The module sends voltage to the postion sensor and it returns. With it unplugged and bypassed with the sim the voltage never. Changes. Because the voltage never changes the input to the shock never changes there should not be any cycle on the tech 2 bcause the module is showing the car sitting still and leve! No matter how hard you drive it.. if you are getting voltage change to the shock siimulators something is wrong. The risistor only tells the module there is an active item here ready to work. The first ones we cdd we just instal!ed a 5 volt light bulb inline. That allowed the module to do a test that showed there as sometning plugged in.like i said i checked and ive installed over 38 non nag units and never had a single failure with my own inline resistors or the caspers. The fact you have tells me its something else but if you have it fixed, id not worry about it.. 1.5watts is what is needed 10 watts is more than enough .my friend at ecklers corvette says tbey have sold thousands and some people try to use them on cars that they dont work but be said hes never heard of any burning out..
 
If you look at my tech 2 picture. The top 4 readings are 2.22, those are the ride height readings. They never move. But when I drive with the tech 2 computer rig I have, the bottom 4 percent readouts do modulate. Corresponding to a wheel that's getting loaded. Even as the 2.22 is steady. I think there's other sensors still active in the system. Like yaw sensor, steering angle sensor. If I just sit in the garage and bounce a corner up and down with my body weight. The percent readings don't move. And the 2.22 doesn't move. But I think momentum is picked up somewhere else for the module when moving. I'm ok with this setup for now. Bigger capacity resistors don't hurt anything. Trust me mickeytee if you were closer I'd just come by and let you fix it, check it. I didn't want to get this deep into the cars electrocinics. I just want to drive it😎 The kit from Amazon does have a ton of real world successful applications for caddy and gm, so I figured I'd give it a try since the Casper's kept dying after the first freeway clover leaf on ramp🤣 every time. I do appreciate your feedback, and I think the more we talk about this the more it helps other members. If someone tries the Casper's, and they aren't working. They definitely need a tech 2. And maybe these bigger resistors will help. Earlier models 04-06, might have a bad module, that even after doing everything, you still have the warning messages. That's why a tech 2 or clone is so helpful to diagnose. The clone I got works on a laptop. It was only $130 I think. It was a little hard to get setup on the laptop. But once my friend and I battled thru that it's been easy to use. That was all just computer setup IT issues. The unit itself works good.
 
The tech2 clone I used
Easiest is to use an old laptop you have laying around. It doesn't like newer windows software and security
 
Yes we will have to get together. Just took my 08 around the cloverleaf with all four squalling and no input to the shocks. Steady . 2.volts to the ride height. Im not that good at ekectronics . just when i see something working and it does not work somewhefe else i like to figure out why. Haha.only 04-05 had the yaw running thru the brake control module . then to suspension. It was supposed to stiffen up the lead shocks when you got the car sideways in a slide in conjunction with the abs but did not work as planned. Dropped in 06-09. thats why 04 and some 05 abs modules cost so much they are all by themselves but i can adapt the later to work. Some people charge 1000$ for the 04-05. People are just going to havve to quit paying such stupid money for parts and they will comedown.
 

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