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How many of you shift gears yourself on a regular basis? Any issues?

SanDiegoXLR

Seasoned Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2009
Messages
143
Location
San Diego, CA
My XLR/V(s)
2005 Platinum with Shale
Haven't really seen too many posts on here regarding transmission repairs- which is a good thing!

Was wondering if
frequently shifting it in the manual mode causes additional wear and tear. Or was the XLR built under the assumption that this feature would be used a lot by some drivers?

My past cars (Honda S2000 and Mazda Miata) were manual....so it's fun taking the XLR to redline from time to time once warmed up.
Definitely enjoy downshifting instead of hitting the brakes all the time.

Does the transmission fluid need to be changed every 100,000 miles? Or more frequently if shifting yourself?
 
I don't ever use mine, but after my husband gave it a workout, the shifter cable broke. HOWEVER, I think that was just a coincidence & those cables have been a problem for others independent of manual shifting. It did give me a chance to blame him for breaking my car though ... :squint:
 
Oh wow- how much did that cost to repair? :(

One time I was driving pretty aggressively and shifting myself- and the coil pack blew.....ugh! Had to replace all of the spark plugs too.
Wasn't sure if it was due to shifting myself or just a coincidence.


I don't ever use mine, but after my husband gave it a workout, the shifter cable broke. HOWEVER, I think that was just a coincidence & those cables have been a problem for others independent of manual shifting. It did give me a chance to blame him for breaking my car though ... :squint:
 
Oh wow- how much did that cost to repair? :(

One time I was driving pretty aggressively and shifting myself- and the coil pack blew.....ugh! Had to replace all of the spark plugs too.
Wasn't sure if it was due to shifting myself or just a coincidence.

$350-400, most of it labor because they had to drop the entire tunnel tube cover, LOTS of screws (we picked up some spare cables for $57 with shipping, dealer charged double but that included next day air too). You are dead in the water when that cable goes - if you cut the car off (usually you don't have much other option) & it's in gear, you can't get it to start again. I would bet that & your coil pack are really unfortunate coincidences.

I did learn at a performance driving school that even if the car has a limiter to keep your engine speed down if you don't upshift when you should, it's not the equivalent of slamming brakes on the revs so the engine will still spin a few hundred RPM past redline. Seems obvious when you think about it - but I never had. Since I'm not too slick with the self-shifting that's part of why I don't mess with it much on anything I've had with it.

I'm thinking some of the people here who race & do the Texas Mile, etc. might have a lot more knowledge on wear & tear & the need for fluid changes. That said, my husband is of the belief that "they shouldn't put it on the car if it wasn't intended to survive being used" - but then again these cars aren't exactly new anymore either.
 
$350-400 isn't so bad!
One thing that stopped me from getting a MB SL500 is that they have a lot of transmission issues- the electronic shifter won't engage, and typical repair is $2000-$3500+ ouch.

Agree completely with both you and your husband regarding this statement: "that "they shouldn't put it on the car if it wasn't intended to survive being used" - but then again these cars aren't exactly new anymore either."

Mine turns 10 years old in February! Parts do wear with time....as I saw what happened with my shocks and rear control arm bushing.
 
$350-400 isn't so bad!
One thing that stopped me from getting a MB SL500 is that they have a lot of transmission issues- the electronic shifter won't engage, and typical repair is $2000-$3500+ ouch.

Agree completely with both you and your husband regarding this statement: "that "they shouldn't put it on the car if it wasn't intended to survive being used" - but then again these cars aren't exactly new anymore either."

Mine turns 10 years old in February! Parts do wear with time....as I saw what happened with my shocks and rear control arm bushing.

XLR's can be an ouch but MB = big ouch! It seems to me the engines & trannies on these are pretty rock solid - I've only seen one mention on here of someone replacing a transmission, but I don't think they said what happened. A few folks have put well over 100k miles on trannies & engines without major issues. It's the widgets that tend to go.

I did end up having the shifter itself replaced this year. It was always a little loose moving between D, N, R etc. (you had to jiggle it to get the gear light to come on) & was worse after the cable was replaced. I suspect it could have just been adjusted but since I had a warranty the dealer just went ahead & replaced it, $500 (about an even split between labor & parts) but no cost to me. It's been so long since anyone used the manual shifter I don't think that had anything to do with it at all.
 
Your question,,,

"Does the transmission fluid need to be changed every 100,000 miles? "


Is that what the manual says?

Believe it best to change out @ 30 to 35K miles ,, depending on use and climate you live in
 
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I had my changed at 52k when I bought her in March 2011 and probably have it done this spring she has about 86k now!


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Dan & Wendy
"05 GRAND DADDY"
 
I have 92k, so long over-due to change mine!!!




I had my changed at 52k when I bought her in March 2011 and probably have it done this spring she has about 86k now!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dan & Wendy
"05 GRAND DADDY"
 
I use the manumatic whenever I'm going down hill for I don't like braking :mad:, and I've used it not so often when driving and I want to move real fast, but if I don't see the HUD I don't use it.
 
I use the manumatic whenever I'm going down hill for I don't like braking :mad:, and I've used it not so often when driving and I want to move real fast, but if I don't see the HUD I don't use it.

OK; I'll bite. How can you NOT see the HUD???

:dunno:

Tim
 
Can't see the HUD when wearing polarized sunglasses because it is a reflection off the windshield.


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Can't see the HUD when wearing polarized sunglasses because it is a reflection off the windshield.


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Tilt your head and it will appear. It has to do with the direction of polarization.
 
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Can't see the HUD when wearing polarized sunglasses because it is a reflection off the windshield.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hmmm... Ever notice that polarized sunglasses do NOT block out the cruise control icon? Makes one wonder why the icon (which is also reflected, BTW) isn't blocked, but the numbers are. :dunno:

Maybe it's not the reflection that polarizes it; maybe it's the way the characters are generated.

Either way, just tilt your head to the side and you can still see the digits.

FWIW

Tim
 
Manual shifting does not affect the shift cable as shifting is all electronic after the vehicle is put into drive. I prefer to let the car do the shifting because I usually hit the rev limiter when doing it myself due to the delay between when I push the gear shift and when the transmission decides to actually shift. Kind of embarrassing like missing a gear with a manual.

Whenever my head is tilted my wife knows we are getting ready to go fast!
 
Manual shifting does not affect the shift cable as shifting is all electronic after the vehicle is put into drive. I prefer to let the car do the shifting because I usually hit the rev limiter when doing it myself due to the delay between when I push the gear shift and when the transmission decides to actually shift. Kind of embarrassing like missing a gear with a manual.

Whenever my head is tilted my wife knows we are getting ready to go fast!

When I do go to manual I treat it like a clutch by leaving up on the gas between shifting!
I have noticed by just tilting my head up down with my prescription polarized sunglasses I can still see the HUDS UP Display! [emoji41]
Is it true that when it's put in the manual shifting it's also in a High Performance Mode?


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Dan & Wendy
"05 GRAND DADDY"
 
I would guess I'm hardest on my tranny than most. I change my fluids every year (both tranny and rear-end) just to be safe - never flush, just drain and refill. So far, I still have very solid shifts although a little harder due to my tranny tune.

Manual shifting does not affect the shift cable as shifting is all electronic after the vehicle is put into drive.

Actually the cable does move slightly in manual mode, but as you said, the shifts are done by closing momentary switches in the console. I was in the shop a few times when my cable broke and specifically asked the XLR Tech to show me. At the time I was trying to develop a better cable system so I needed to see it in all aspects of operation. I concluded the OEM cable has two weak points: the connector near the shifter and the fact that the cable itself was only a five twisted aluminum wires wrapped with a very thin cover. Because this is both a pull AND PUSH system, I thought a solid pushrod would be better, but there are some slight bends in the cable routing that make a pushrod a poor alternative. There are a few manufacturers of racing bicycles brakes that have cables of higher tensile strength, but none wanted to make a one-off cable for me.

When I do go to manual I treat it like a clutch by leaving up on the gas between shifting!
Is it true that when it's put in the manual shifting it's also in a High Performance Mode?

Manual mode is not initiated until your first manual shift. But if you do slide the shifter over to where you can access manual mode, the stock PCM does change the shift points to keep you in each gear longer than normal (this is commonly referred to as "Sport Mode".) Performance mode is initiated with the button on the console between the seats and is verified on the DIC. It's my understanding that this mode just stiffens the suspension, but I've noticed a different feel in the steering as well.

Roll racers in the CTS-V, STS-V, and XLR-Vs have developed a technique known as the "Slap-Slap" shift. In a roll race, a starting speed is agreed upon and when the racers are side by side at that speed, they initiate a countdown and begin the race. Roll racers know its best to start in the lowest possible gear, so they use manual mode to downshift and hold that gear till the race begins. As soon as they launch, they slap the shifter to normal mode (disengaging manual mode) and back again to the sport position for the higher shifts. Slap right, slap left; i.e., Slap-Slap shifting which is much, much, much faster and more effective than waiting for the tranny to downshift.
 
I would guess I'm hardest on my tranny than most. I change my fluids every year (both tranny and rear-end) just to be safe - never flush, just drain and refill. So far, I still have very solid shifts although a little harder due to my tranny tune.



Actually the cable does move slightly in manual mode, but as you said, the shifts are done by closing momentary switches in the console. I was in the shop a few times when my cable broke and specifically asked the XLR Tech to show me. At the time I was trying to develop a better cable system so I needed to see it in all aspects of operation. I concluded the OEM cable has two weak points: the connector near the shifter and the fact that the cable itself was only a five twisted aluminum wires wrapped with a very thin cover. Because this is both a pull AND PUSH system, I thought a solid pushrod would be better, but there are some slight bends in the cable routing that make a pushrod a poor alternative. There are a few manufacturers of racing bicycles brakes that have cables of higher tensile strength, but none wanted to make a one-off cable for me.



Manual mode is not initiated until your first manual shift. But if you do slide the shifter over to where you can access manual mode, the stock PCM does change the shift points to keep you in each gear longer than normal (this is commonly referred to as "Sport Mode".) Performance mode is initiated with the button on the console between the seats and is verified on the DIC. It's my understanding that this mode just stiffens the suspension, but I've noticed a different feel in the steering as well.

Roll racers in the CTS-V, STS-V, and XLR-Vs have developed a technique known as the "Slap-Slap" shift. In a roll race, a starting speed is agreed upon and when the racers are side by side at that speed, they initiate a countdown and begin the race. Roll racers know its best to start in the lowest possible gear, so they use manual mode to downshift and hold that gear till the race begins. As soon as they launch, they slap the shifter to normal mode (disengaging manual mode) and back again to the sport position for the higher shifts. Slap right, slap left; i.e., Slap-Slap shifting which is much, much, much faster and more effective than waiting for the tranny to downshift.

Thx Gizmo great information always wanted to clear that up! I have another question to this same discussion does either of these modes affect anything with the rear ended as in posi traction or anti slip traction and what do you personally run in when running on the track! Also if your in manual shift mode will it down shift/up shift to protect the trans?


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Dan & Wendy
"05 GRAND DADDY"
 
Thx Gizmo great information always wanted to clear that up! I have another question to this same discussion does either of these modes affect anything with the rear ended as in posi traction or anti slip traction and what do you personally run in when running on the track! Also if your in manual shift mode will it down shift/up shift to protect the trans?

The answer to the first part (posi traction) is no, but....

Traction control and stabilitrack cannot be completely disabled in these cars while driving (there is a way for your mechanic to do it, but I won't get into that). Performance mode loosens up the "nannies" a bit, but if you do get way outta control stabilitrack will intercede. I have drifted the car and could feel the stabilitrack coming in and out. Shocked me the first time cause I was all in with full opposite lock and the car started braking the inside brakes to straighten out and I was fighting it.

Keep in mind the car adjusts to your driving style. I race LSR, Autocross, and HPDE/Track days. These are all completely different forms of performance driving so the car settings are different for each. I also try to preprogram the car prior to racing so its not making computer adjustments while I'm making driving adjustments, i.e., I will take the back roads to an autocross meet and work the twisties hard so by the time I get there the car has adjusted for hard cornering at low speeds and high revs. Prior to LSR, I practice a few hard launches so I can remember what it feels like loosing traction and hooking back up.

So to answer your question on what modes I use.

For autocross, I run in sport and performance mode and shift manually. I have turned all the nannies off as well as the variable steering, none of which I recommend - I have never worked so hard in my life and it didn't improve my lap times.​

For LSR, I turn off traction control only. Most folks would benefit from switching to sport mode, but ELWOOD spins up so fast the sport mode shifts are above redline. I prefer the shifts occur immediately at the crest of the torque curve which is around 5900RPM. My tuner adjusted the computer to shift at 5200 in normal mode and I've found at full throttle with the meth at 100% - between the command and the actual shift, I'm right at 5900 for the first four gears.​

For HPDE/Track days, it varies depending on the track and my comfort zone. My first time on a track, I'm not trying to wring the car out to its max capability before I've learned the driving lines. I may switch to performance mode to take advantage of the higher revs, but I usually take it easy the first two sessions. For my home track (Gateway) on my race rubber, I shift manually with performance mode on.​


For you last question the answer is also yes and NO! Once in manual mode, it doesn't shift unless you tell it, but if you slow way below the gearing it will downshift, i.e., in second or third and you come to a complete stop it will change to first gear.
 
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