Failed Folding Top Control Module?

[Chuck in PA]

Just as summer arrives, tragedy strikes...
The rear compartment on my ’06 became flooded. The trunk will not raise or lower and hydraulics are not operationing. The button in the trunk lid to lower is non functional. The trunk button the cabin will release the latch mechanism when then trunk has is closed manually but trunk does not move. With the trunk open, pressing the open/close roof button cause the message “Top Motor Over Temp” on DIT. Would this be symptomatic of a failed Folding Top Control? Has any had success of drying out the FTC and resuming operation without an expensive repair?

If so, can anyone provide an estimated cost to repair? Since the XLR has been out of production for 9 years, finding a qualified XLR tech is probably pretty rare. I’m in the Philadelphia area. If anyone knows of a dealer w/ XLR Tech on staff in South East PA, Southern New Jersey, please let me know.

I'd be okay with driving with top up for awhile, but the Check Engine Light is one. My OBD device is reporting communication errors U1305, U1088, U1193, U1096, U1153, U1098 & U1129 as the cause. I thinks it's all related to FTC issue, but PA inspection is due is a few weeks and it won't pass with CEL on.

Thanks,
Chuck

 

[mickeytee]

boy that's a whole lot of codes. Looks like all of them have to do with communication with the dash, amp and other stuff. DId your passenger floor board also get wet? BAttery up to good charge level? check that ground on the rear drivers side frame. Other than that seems like the ride control and top controls may be down. I don't think drying them out solves the problem . There are electrical people on here who can help.

 

[stormshadow71]

Just as summer arrives, tragedy strikes...
The rear compartment on my ’06 became flooded. The trunk will not raise or lower and hydraulics are not operationing. The button in the trunk lid to lower is non functional. The trunk button the cabin will release the latch mechanism when then trunk has is closed manually but trunk does not move. With the trunk open, pressing the open/close roof button cause the message “Top Motor Over Temp” on DIT. Would this be symptomatic of a failed Folding Top Control? Has any had success of drying out the FTC and resuming operation without an expensive repair?

If so, can anyone provide an estimated cost to repair? Since the XLR has been out of production for 9 years, finding a qualified XLR tech is probably pretty rare. I’m in the Philadelphia area. If anyone knows of a dealer w/ XLR Tech on staff in South East PA, Southern New Jersey, please let me know.

I'd be okay with driving with top up for awhile, but the Check Engine Light is one. My OBD device is reporting communication errors U1305, U1088, U1193, U1096, U1153, U1098 & U1129 as the cause. I thinks it's all related to FTC issue, but PA inspection is due is a few weeks and it won't pass with CEL on.

Thanks,
Chuck

I have a new FTCM if you are interested. My top was giving me trouble a few years back and the Stealership said it was the folding top module. They wanted almost $2000 to fix. I ordered the part for $600 myself and ended up putting a Tech 2 to see what codes were pulling. It ended up being the microswitch on the windshield passenger side. $50 repair myself. If you need a new FTCM, I can sell mine for less than half... $200 PM me if interested. Sorry I can't be of more help to you.

 

[mbrund]

I'd be okay with driving with top up for awhile, but the Check Engine Light is one. My OBD device is reporting communication errors U1305, U1088, U1193, U1096, U1153, U1098 & U1129 as the cause. I thinks it's all related to FTC issue, but PA inspection is due is a few weeks and it won't pass with CEL on.

Thanks,
Chuck

Did you clear all your DTC codes and restart to see if they are in fact part of this issue?

The DTC will normally stay until cleared as history items. So they may not be related at all to the issue you are currently having.

 

[Chuck in PA]

boy that's a whole lot of codes. Looks like all of them have to do with communication with the dash, amp and other stuff. DId your passenger floor board also get wet? BAttery up to good charge level? check that ground on the rear drivers side frame. Other than that seems like the ride control and top controls may be down. I don't think drying them out solves the problem . There are electrical people on here who can help.

Drying out the FTCM was only wishful thinking. I did however get the codes to clear.
Thanks for your help.
Chuck

 

[Chuck in PA]

I have a new FTCM if you are interested. My top was giving me trouble a few years back and the Stealership said it was the folding top module. They wanted almost $2000 to fix. I ordered the part for $600 myself and ended up putting a Tech 2 to see what codes were pulling. It ended up being the microswitch on the windshield passenger side. $50 repair myself. If you need a new FTCM, I can sell mine for less than half... $200 PM me if interested. Sorry I can't be of more help to you.

Thanks for the offer of the FTCM. I may take you up on it.
Chuck

 

[Chuck in PA]

Did you clear all your DTC codes and restart to see if they are in fact part of this issue?

The DTC will normally stay until cleared as history items. So they may not be related at all to the issue you are currently having.

I cleared and restarted a couple of times. Then I drove car for 10-15 mins, cleared codes again, and they have not resurfaced.
Thanks for your help
Chuck

 

[mickeytee]

great wishing

Drying out the FTCM was only wishful thinking. I did however get the codes to clear.
Thanks for your help.
Chuck

that's fantastic. You must have "wished upon a star"
you must have gotten them as soon as they got wet and no power on them. The ones I have seen have been fried and corroded. Will have to try that the next time I see one

 

[cheapstreetduster]

for what its worth i recently purchased a new ecu for the conv top from ebay. for $400 so they are out there again..
he had a few avail.

 

[mickeytee]

body control module

thats good to know. However on a sad note GM is out of the body control modules and the price is back to 1500 from 400 they were going for. This time Idont think they will make any more as they are also out and none being made for the corvette. So keep your old wet ones in case we can find someone to rebuild them.

 

[mike.perkins17]

Do you still have a ftmc for sale?

 

[Tinks]

do u still have a FTCM for sale?

 

[Tinks]

FTCM

does anyone have a good pic of where this is located? I wud like to remove mine and send to a place that can hopefully repair it

 

[RonXLR]

You said

It ended up being the microswitch on the ​

windshield passenger side

. $50 repair myself. Where is this switch located? I can't find it. Did this fix your Top problem or did I misunderstand? My Top gives a Top Temp error and won't go down.
Thanks,
Ron
​

 

[nerkpowers]

You said

It ended up being the microswitch on the ​

windshield passenger side

. $50 repair myself. Where is this switch located? I can't find it. Did this fix your Top problem or did I misunderstand? My Top gives a Top Temp error and won't go down.
Thanks,
Ron
​

Ron,
Suggest you search other posts on this forum on the top temperature error. The temperature is measured by a thermistor that is sealed in the base of the Folding Top pump housing. Once failed, the entire unit has to be removed and repaired/replaced. There is an outfit in Oregon that rebuilds these for a reasonable price. I can’t remember those details, so a search will point you to your solution.


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[RonXLR]

My electronics colleagues and I are trying to figure out a way to trick the thermistor or deleting the error from the programming. This $20 thermister shouldn't end up costing thousands. If I can find a solution, I'll post it. I know it's a safety feature, but I never plan to put the top down when it's 124 degrees or when it's freezing. If anyone else has an idea, let us know. For now I'm just driving with the top up. Worse comes to worse I'll break out my wallet next Spring.
Thanks,
Ron
BTW I know it's the thermistor because it always measure out at 81k ohms which equals 120 degrees at the computer.

 

[long Tall Sally]

I thought it was saying the pump motor is running too hot not the temp outside is too hot. Its sealed within the motor as an overload from what I was told. May be wrong. For 500$ for a complete rebuilt and super warranty the motor from hydraulic tops seems like a deal . When I need one I will be going there.

 

[long Tall Sally]

Ron keep in mind that that is a sealed item I believe. So it did not short out due to moisture like the modules. It failed due to an overload of the motor at some point due to wear or too long a run cycle or some other reason. .So replaceing it or bypassing may not clear up an issue with the motor. If you know that a switch on the top has failed and the motor ran too long or too hard due to extra weight on the trunk you may be ok. But if it failed due to over working because of failed trunk assist supports or some other reason , you will want to monitor the temp to prevent damage to the seals and lines. Let us know what you find out. It may be something simple after all. I don't work on these but did a lot at Mercedes which has a similar system

 

[RonXLR]

I bought a new and more powerful battery. 640 cold crank. Top work now. halleluiah.
Thanks for all your help.
Ron

 

[nerkpowers]

Ron,
One thing is that you should only run the top with the engine running. It will only take three or four cycles to run the battery down completely.


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