160 deg. thermostat -- where ?

[Phrede]

Where did those of you with a 160 degree thermostat get them?

TIA

 

[Stella]

Where did those of you with a 160 degree thermostat get them?

TIA

your local auto parts store should carry it. If not the dealer would for sure just ask for a 160.

 

[Phrede]

your local auto parts store should carry it. If not the dealer would for sure just ask for a 160.

They have 160 degree stats. The problem is that they do not know the application. The dealer has no clue since it is not OEM spec.

 

[GizmoQ]

It is a Mr. Gasket and anyone who carries Mr. Gasket will have it. Part number 6367 and reuse your stock gasket.

The only issues may be this winter you might need to set P0128 code to no report.

DTC P0128
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature
The engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor is a variable resistor that measures the temperature of the engine coolant. The engine control module (ECM) supplies 5 volts to the ECT sensor signal circuit and supplies a ground to the low reference circuit.

The purpose of this diagnostic is to analyze the performance of the thermostat, by using the ECT sensor to determine if the engine coolant will increase at the correct rate, and also meet the calibrated target temperatures under various operating conditions.

The ECM uses the start-up ECT and the start-up intake air temperature (IAT) to begin the diagnostic calculation. The air flow into the engine is accumulated , and vehicle speed, distance, and engine run time are also factored in to determine if the ECT does increase normally and reach the calibrated target temperatures.

 

[Phrede]

It is a Mr. Gasket and anyone who carries Mr. Gasket will have it. Part number 6367 and reuse your stock gasket.

The only issues may be this winter you might need to set P0128 code to no report.

DTC P0128
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature
The engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor is a variable resistor that measures the temperature of the engine coolant. The engine control module (ECM) supplies 5 volts to the ECT sensor signal circuit and supplies a ground to the low reference circuit.

The purpose of this diagnostic is to analyze the performance of the thermostat, by using the ECT sensor to determine if the engine coolant will increase at the correct rate, and also meet the calibrated target temperatures under various operating conditions.

The ECM uses the start-up ECT and the start-up intake air temperature (IAT) to begin the diagnostic calculation. The air flow into the engine is accumulated , and vehicle speed, distance, and engine run time are also factored in to determine if the ECT does increase normally and reach the calibrated target temperatures.

Thanks Gizmo. Winter should not be an issue.

Well, maybe this winter..... I have a few changes planned and it will require some travel in the off months. Maybe a trip to see Jesse Bubb.

 

[onalaska]

Thanks Gizmo. Winter should not be an issue.

Well, maybe this winter..... I have a few changes planned and it will require some travel in the off months. Maybe a trip to see Jesse Bubb.

I didn't change the thermostat, but a trip to Jessie's will sure change the personality of your XLR!

 

[Stella]

They have 160 degree stats. The problem is that they do not know the application. The dealer has no clue since it is not OEM spec.

It has to do with the engine not the car. The engine has other applications than the xlrv. Application would be a 4.4L supercharged northstar I would think theirs only acouple different designs. You can go to any GM dealer I could see a cadillac parts guy

 

[richardyoo]

I have a 160 deg stat.

Without at tune the stat change won't do much as the fans will still only kick in at the higher stock temp.

 

[Phrede]

I have a 160 deg stat.

Without at tune the stat change won't do much as the fans will still only kick in at the higher stock temp.

If your fans come on you're not going fast enough A new Tech2 is on its way and tune is also planned after a couple psi boost.

 

[Phrede]

It has to do with the engine not the car. The engine has other applications than the xlrv. Application would be a 4.4L supercharged northstar I would think theirs only acouple different designs. You can go to any GM dealer I could see a cadillac parts guy

The only other car with the LC3 engine that I am aware of is the STS-V. I may be wrong. I did find out that the thermostat is the same as in the very popular LS1 engine. No problem finding one now.

That is a common trick when ordering parts for our cars is to first find out in what popular car the part was also used. ie brakes for a C6 w/Z51 are everywhere to be found.

 

[Phrede]

I didn't change the thermostat, but a trip to Jessie's will sure change the personality of your XLR!

Can you share any information about dealing with him? Costs? results? time required? PM me if you prefer.

I've heard a lot of good things about him and he is about 4 hours from me, so why not?


BTW missed you in Bowling Green.

 

[V Happy]

V Happy

Guys
What would be the advantage to change to a 160. These cars are designed to run hotter. What is the effect on the ecm with this stat. I just replaced mine because it was stuck open. I've noticed a better performance with the new stat. I know the V run hot in slow moving traffic in hot weather. This 160 stat may give you a head start on that condition. That is the only advantage I can see.
V Happy

 

[Phrede]

Guys
What would be the advantage to change to a 160. These cars are designed to run hotter. What is the effect on the ecm with this stat. I just replaced mine because it was stuck open. I've noticed a better performance with the new stat. I know the V run hot in slow moving traffic in hot weather. This 160 stat may give you a head start on that condition. That is the only advantage I can see.
V Happy

The basic idea is a cooler charge is a denser charge and will accept more fuel. More fuel= more power. That said, every engine has it's own personality. Some like it warmer some a little cooler. It seems the LC3 has a less than optimal heat exchanger for the supercharge. Trying to cool everything down is an attempt to indirectly help that situation.

 

[mark henicle]

p0128 and temp gauge goes to 0

the wife finally let me drive her 05 xlr this week, one day it was 12 degrees outside, the next was 17. At the end of my 14 mile ride to work, the temp gauge was at minimum or 100 degrees. P0128 came on after next start. Next day same thing. She only drives the car 4 miles to work, guess that is why she never gets the fault. I have both large service manuals for the car and can't find the location for the temperature sensor. Seems like that has to be the culprit. Book suggests thermostat, or air temp sensor. Anyone have a similar experience?

 

[onalaska]

the wife finally let me drive her 05 xlr this week, one day it was 12 degrees outside, the next was 17. At the end of my 14 mile ride to work, the temp gauge was at minimum or 100 degrees. P0128 came on after next start. Next day same thing. She only drives the car 4 miles to work, guess that is why she never gets the fault. I have both large service manuals for the car and can't find the location for the temperature sensor. Seems like that has to be the culprit. Book suggests thermostat, or air temp sensor. Anyone have a similar experience?

The sensor is located on the back of the passenger side head. It's a tight squeeze between the head and the firewall, but you can reach it and unplug the connection if you have small hands. It's probably the thermostat though. I just had the same problem and picked up a new stat to put in this week.

 

[mark henicle]

your temperature went to minimum as well?

The sensor is located on the back of the passenger side head. It's a tight squeeze between the head and the firewall, but you can reach it and unplug the connection if you have small hands. It's probably the thermostat though. I just had the same problem and picked up a new stat to put in this week.

 

[onalaska]

your temperature went to minimum as well?

Yes it did, The first indication of a problem was the message "Engine hot - A/C off" on the DIC after driving about five miles from home. I looked down at the temp gauge and it was against the peg on the cold side. I raised the hood and checked the radiator hose and there was no pressure telling me the engine was not hot, but the engine fan was obviously running at full speed, much louder than normal. Regardless I turned the heater on high on the way back home just in case. When I got home I plugged in my Tech2 and got a coolant temperature reading of about 150 degrees, but the gauge on the dash was still pegged on cold. Some really conflicting indications, but everyone says it's the sign of a bad thermostat. I started it back up the following day and the DIC immediately said "Engine Hot - A/C off" and the temp still didn't come off the peg reading cold even though the Tech2 was showing the engine temp increasing as it was warming up and the engine fan was running full speed again. Then about 10 minutes into the warm up the temp gauge moved up into the lower quadrant and the engine fan slowed back down to normal. Driving it now from cold I don't get the message anymore, but I notice the temperature on the gauge is very slow to warm up and never reaches the point where it was before so I guess the thermostat is now stuck open. I first suspected the coolant temperature sensor and unplugged it and plugged it back in several times in case there was a loose connection, but it didn't make any difference and since the Tech2 was reading the engine temp I figure it is ok unless the Tech2 is getting it's temp from another source, but I can't find another coolant temp sensor in the manual. May not be the same symptoms you are having, but the thermostat is cheap and easy to replace, so I am trying that first.

 

[GM MUSL]

I had a similar problem and the fault was in the thermostat. It did not heat up quickly enough which gave a fault and if it happens twice the temp guage goes to zero. Mine had part of the seal jamming up the stat so it never closed 100%. Change the stat and go from there - it is a cheap fix. Don't forget to replace the gasket.

 

[mark henicle]

new details

drove the car last night and the gauge and heater worked perfectly. Temperature held at about 175. Today drove the car to work, no problem. Tonight coming home, noticed temp gauge was again at minimum when pulling into the garage. Outside temp 27 today. This time I notice at least one of the cooling fans running as I opened the hood. Sure enough, turned car off and back on and 128 was set again. Weird isn't it to run a fan with low water temp

 

[onalaska]

Thermostat Replaced

Installed a new 180 degree thermostat from Auto Zone and everything appears normal. Don't forget to get a new gasket as the one that comes with the thermostat will not fit the Northstar engine. They didn't list one for the XLR-V so I checked the XLR base and it was listed there and it's the same one. Looks like a figure 8 as it also seals one of the heater hose connections. Two 10mm bolts and some antifreeze later everything is good. Don't forget when adding coolant to run the engine at 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for a couple of minutes to circulate the coolant as just idling will not purge the air out of the system. The old thermostat was not stuck open so it must just be opening too soon and not regulating the temperature properly as it took a really long time to warm up the engine.