Suspension lowering question.....

[zeek]

Ok, ok...I know too many questions from the new XLR owner.... ... I now know, that the XLR is based on the Corvette C6 chassis. I also have seen tech articles about lowering the C6 an inch or so just by adjusting the stock suspension. So my obvious question is, can we do the same to our XLR suspension as is done on the C6 Corvette?

 

[Stella]

Ok, ok...I know too many questions from the new XLR owner.... ... I now know, that the XLR is based on the Corvette C6 chassis. I also have seen tech articles about lowering the C6 an inch or so just by adjusting the stock suspension. So my obvious question is, can we do the same to our XLR suspension as is done on the C6 Corvette?

Yes you can. The traverse springs front and rear have leveling bumper pads on each side. Simple screwing the bolt in or out adjusts each corner. Some on the site have had the bolt actually seize or the rubber bumper pad ripped off. I would recommend if your gonna mess with the bolts that you soak PB blaster penetrant on the threads. I use PB blaster a lot and works phenomenal. Would buy stock in it, it works so good. If you research c6 lowering bolt on eBay you can find replacements and lowering pads which some replace the stock bolts with. Would take measurements before and after to get correct. Good luck

 

[zeek]

Yes you can. The traverse springs front and rear have leveling bumper pads on each side. Simple screwing the bolt in or out adjusts each corner. Some on the site have had the bolt actually seize or the rubber bumper pad ripped off. I would recommend if your gonna mess with the bolts that you soak PB blaster penetrant on the threads. I use PB blaster a lot and works phenomenal. Would buy stock in it, it works so good. If you research c6 lowering bolt on eBay you can find replacements and lowering pads which some replace the stock bolts with. Would take measurements before and after to get correct. Good luck

I was hoping I was correct. Thanks for verifying what I suspected. Also, I know about penetrating oils, but what specific brand does "PB" stand for?

 

[DanF]

B'laster's PB Penetrating Catalyst - Best penetrant and rust inhibitor

 

[Stella]

I was hoping I was correct. Thanks for verifying what I suspected. Also, I know about penetrating oils, but what specific brand does "PB" stand for?

I don't know but I recommend it to all my mechanics and it's worked almost every time I've ever used. Wasn't lying when I said I want to buy stock in it. Everybody I've every recommended to agrees that it's the BEST penetrant out there. I have suppliers trying to sell me their brands and when I ask how does it compare to PB blaster they stop their little demonstration.

 

[b_pappy]

Lower that car! I agree, easy mod, and I do not there are any negatives to it.
Bruce

 

[garygroff]

..

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

[zeek]

B'laster's PB Penetrating Catalyst - Best penetrant and rust inhibitor

Oh yeah....that stuff.....That's what I always use too. I just never paid any attention to what it was called!

 

[zeek]

Lower that car! I agree, easy mod, and I do not there are any negatives to it.
Bruce

I agree.....the Vette guys do it all the time. I think the most that may have to be done is a front and rear end alignment.

 

[Phrede]

Does the suspension control need to be recalibrated? Seem like the system would think the suspension was falsely loaded and react accordingly. I would expect a stiffer ride which may or may not matter to you.

 

[fcarga]

I would pay attention to what Phrede posted. Lowering your car changes the suspension relationships.
You need to measure the 4 corners prior to lowering and lower the same amount at each corner to keep
the suspension relationships and then redo the front and rear alignments by someone that really understands
aligning. You have changed corner weighting if your lowering isn't accurate and you have changed shock/sping
relationship etc.

Many Corvette guys found to their dismay that their car handled better prior to lowering. Many alignment shops
have no idea, so beware. Hope it all works out for you.

 

[b_pappy]

I have lowered both my C5 and my XLR by adjusting the lowering bolts. It will need to be aligned afterwards, but to me there was no appreciable difference in ride quality. It's when they go nuts and cut bushings that the terrible ride characteristics take place.
Bruce

 

[05 GRAND DADDY]

You guys speak of a bolt that has snapped or broken and that this maybe the same area or same the bolt that you use to lower the car! My thing is I still wonder where these bolts are that may have snapped are located? As I'm still not sure why mine don't seem to have the best ride? Maybe I'm expecting to much? Still seems to me to be hard hitting feel on manholes, bridge slots ect....
Would they have noticed these bolts during alignment or would they not even see that they are snapped. One of the past post mentioned they could be broke and never even notice it. I had new shocks put on the front also, the front was bottoming out & leaking oil on drives side so changed both front shocks! What's your opinion?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dan & Wendy
"05 GRAND DADDY"

 

[fcarga]

Doubt that a broken height adjusting bolt(s)-located toward outer portion(s) of the transverse spring--would cause your problem.
Assuming that correct replacement shocks were installed correctly, I would consider tire age, tire size, tire pressure followed by
front suspension problem and/or alignment. And, yes, there is always the possibility that you may be expecting too much!

• 
  
  

• 
  
  

 

[05 GRAND DADDY]

Ok thanks the shocks where replaced by Cadillac dealer with OEM I did just recently lower tire pressure to recommend 30 psi which did make a difference, was running 35psi


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dan & Wendy
"05 GRAND DADDY"

 

[Stella]

If you had the shocks replaced I would think,or would hope that they took a look at the rest of the suspension components while under there. Also when you had went to get a alignment they would have noticed your car would be leaning a touch. Walk around your car with a tape measure. Measure the tops of your wheel wells they should be the same side to side not front to back.
When changing tires if you don't replace with factory originals exactly,then their tire pressure recommendations mean nothing. I always start off with what's printed on the tire,then adjust if desired.

 

[05 GRAND DADDY]

If you had the shocks replaced I would think,or would hope that they took a look at the rest of the suspension components while under there. Also when you had went to get a alignment they would have noticed your car would be leaning a touch. Walk around your car with a tape measure. Measure the tops of your wheel wells they should be the same side to side not front to back.
When changing tires if you don't replace with factory originals exactly,then their tire pressure recommendations mean nothing. I always start off with what's printed on the tire,then adjust if desired.

Good info. I also just remembered today that there was paper work in the car that before I bought the car there was something done with the rack and pinion in the front end also the tire sizes are the same but not runflats they are Michelins pilots super sports regular tires



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dan & Wendy
"05 GRAND DADDY"

 

[Phrede]

If you had the shocks replaced I would think,or would hope that they took a look at the rest of the suspension components while under there. Also when you had went to get a alignment they would have noticed your car would be leaning a touch. Walk around your car with a tape measure. Measure the tops of your wheel wells they should be the same side to side not front to back.
When changing tires if you don't replace with factory originals exactly,then their tire pressure recommendations mean nothing. I always start off with what's printed on the tire,then adjust if desired.

I have never run a tire at the pressure printed on the tire (MAX safe pressure) I run my current tire at 34 psi and 50psi is printed on the tire. Even on my truck with load range E tires I run 10 psi less than the MAX of 80psi.

 

[05 GRAND DADDY]

I have never run a tire at the pressure printed on the tire (MAX safe pressure) I run my current tire at 34 psi and 50psi is printed on the tire. Even on my truck with load range E tires I run 10 psi less than the MAX of 80psi.

The inside of the door show 30psi on all tires so is that wrong for a tires that not a run flats?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dan & Wendy
"05 GRAND DADDY"

 

[Phrede]

The inside of the door show 30psi on all tires so is that wrong for a tires that not a run flats?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dan & Wendy
"05 GRAND DADDY"

That is factory recommended pressure for the OEM tire. Everything is a compromise and it is no different here. I have found that best performance (over dozens of different car/tire combos, not just and XLR) is usually a few psi above the sticker, but not the best ride. On some cars, not my XLR, front and rear pressures differ. I always adjust then drive to see how things are handling, then repeat. If you are more concerned with ride over performance then you will most likely end up nearer the recommended pressures.

IMHO, I would start at about 33 psi on your tire and go from there. If you like it better at 30psi there is certainly nothing wrong with that pressure. Maybe someone else here is running Pilot SS tires and can chime in. I would try and go for a ride in a different car and compare the rides.