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Push Button Start Replacement

dug-mac

Seasoned Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Messages
47
Location
Massachusetts
I'm looking to replace the ignition button on my car as it is split down the middle. I'm not very good with things like this so my sense is to take it to the dealer but before I do that I'm wondering how hard this job is - I don't want the dealer to tell me there's 2 hours worth of labor just to get at the button if it's an easy fix. I can find the button itself for around $25-30 dollars - how much should labor be? Can a dodo do this himself?

Thanks,

Doug
 
Doug,

Unless you've smashed both thumbs with a hammer, this a simple replacement job. The switch has a connector in the back and fasteners to hold it in place. There might be some trim plates to remove, (I'm on travel and don't have access to my shop manuals) but there's no need to pay a shop to do the replacement.

CC
 
Good future info just in case!
Thx!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thanks Dan
 
I know I'm resurrecting an old thread, but maybe it's better doing it this way? Just got a 2006 XLR with the same start button switch that's split down the middle. I've got a new one ordered but what does it entail actually replacing it? Any help appreciated. BTW anyone have a fix for the broken hinge on the cup holder cover? Haven't started on that one, but I know it's fairly common and I won't pop out big bucks to buy a new factory cover.
 
I BTW anyone have a fix for the broken hinge on the cup holder cover? Haven't started on that one, but I know it's fairly common and I won't pop out big bucks to buy a new factory cover.

Yes, I'm interested in this also. Someone told me you had to replace the entire shift panel cover????
 
Replacing the ignition switch is pretty simple. Remove the old switch, disconnect it, connect the new switch and re-install.


As for the broken cup holder cover, remove the center console trim plate and inspect the hinge area. Mine was dislodged and a spring had fallen out. It was simple to repair once I could see what was actually wrong. Replacing it would not have been cheap.


CC :wave:
 
As for the broken cup holder cover, remove the center console trim plate and inspect the hinge area. Mine was dislodged and a spring had fallen out. It was simple to repair once I could see what was actually wrong. Replacing it would not have been cheap.
CC :wave:

Thanks CC, but the front hinge on my cover is broken - just hoping I can take it apart and hopefully glue it back together. Previous owner told me they checked on it at dealership - - -$1,100.00!! incredible - said they had to buy an entire new cover
 
Replacing the ignition switch is pretty simple. Remove the old switch, disconnect it, connect the new switch and re-install.


CC :wave:

That's what I'm trying to find out, does it just pop out or do I have to remove the lower dash panel? I have the plastic tools for dash panels and trim panels
 
Thanks CC, but the front hinge on my cover is broken - just hoping I can take it apart and hopefully glue it back together. Previous owner told me they checked on it at dealership - - -$1,100.00!! incredible - said they had to buy an entire new cover

Yep, front hinge is broken on mine as well. Next day or so I'm going to pop off the console trim and see what's what
 
Yep, front hinge is broken on mine as well. Next day or so I'm going to pop off the console trim and see what's what

yep, me too - just trying to build up the gumption, and enough beer, to get started on something that I'm sure will lead to something else, ad nauseum! I have quite a knack for turning a 30-min. project into a week long one - or more!
 
If the super glue doesn't work out and you need to order replacement parts online, (you have to replace the whole assembly, not just the part with the hinge mechanism) here's the breakdown:

2006 Base:

PN
25785711 Upper Console / Light Wood $976.88
25785712 Upper Console / Dark Wood $909.54

Ref: GMPartsOutlet.net | CENTER CONSOLE for 2006 Cadillac XLR

CC :wave:
 
If the super glue doesn't work out and you need to order replacemewouldn'ts online, (you have to replace the whole assembly, not just the part with the hinge mechanism) here's the breakdown:

2006 Base:

PN
25785711 Upper Console / Light Wood $976.88
25785712 Upper Console / Dark Wood $909.54

Ref: GMPartsOutlet.net | CENTER CONSOLE for 2006 Cadillac XLR

CC :wave:

YOWCH! Guess the po was right when they said they were told $1100 thru the dealer. But wouldnt the part be for the lower panel? I imagine price will be similar. Out of my league! Hope the glue works!
 
It's easy to replace the ignition switch; here's how:

Tools:

1 Six-Pack. At least three chilled glasses.
A good work light.
#2 Phillips screwdriver
6mm socket on at least a 3" extension

1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2) Remove the driver Knee Bolster Panel (About knee height under the steering wheel):

a) Pry the fuel door and rear deck lid switches out by of the Knee Bolster panel inserting a plastic trim tool at the bottom edge of each switch to release the locking tabs.
b) Disconnect the electrical connector from each switch.
c) Remove the two lower fasteners using a 6mm socket from the bottom of the Knee Bolster panel.
d) Grasp the panel by the sides and pull rearward to release it from it's locking tabs.
e) Marvel at your handiwork thus far. Hell, have a beer!

3) Remove the Left side Closeout/Insulator Panel (lowest panel on the driver's side):

a) Using the same wondrous plastic trim removal tool, carefully pry out the Instrument Panel (IP) courtesy lamp from the Closeout Panel.
b) Remove the press-on retaining nut from the steering column bracket stud.
c) Release the push-pin retainers to the closeout panel from the IP support beam. The push-pins are captive. Pull the closeout panel straight down, and tip it forward. There's a guide on the front/left. The guide slides into a push-pin.
d) Insert the IP courtesy lamp assembly through the opening in the closeout panel.
e) Set the closeout panel aside.
f) Marvel at your progress. Have another beer.

4) Driver's Ignition Switch Replacement:

a) Remove the retaining screws from the bottom of the DIC switch pad.
b) Pull outwards to disengage the retaining clip.
c) Disconnect the Ignition Switch electrical connector.
d) Remove the Ignition Switch.
e) Looks like it's time for another beer, isn't it?

Reverse the disassembly process. Torque the 6mm Knee Bolster panel fasteners to 16 in-lbs. If you've followed the procedure to the letter, you should have one working ignition switch, and ZERO beers.

Note: This can be used to replace the burnt out light bulbs in the IP too.

CC :wave:
 
Last edited:
AWESOME INSTRUCTIONS CC

Now that is one great post. Most any one of us can understand!
Hell, looks like with you and a 30-pak, even i could disassemble an entire car!
Thanks for taking the time for those of us who are not so mechanically adept.:blinzel:
 
Thanks so much for your detailed instructions!! i took a closer look at it today, and knew I had to remove the bottom dash cover, but with your instructions it will be so much easier!!
 
Damn once again I screwed up, I drank the 3 beers first......Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dan & Wendy
"05 GRAND DADDY"
 
I just got through replacing the ignition push button on the X. I followed ccclarke's instructions and they were perfect except the lower knee bolster pad. Mine took a 7mm socket, that I didn't have of course. Had a 6mm and an 8 and 9 mm but had to stop what I was doing and go get a 7mm socket. After that going was fairly easy except the locking tabs on the back of the DIC control panel fell off into my hands. Apparently that's why the switch was cracked from maybe the previous owner pushing too hard on the button? I also didn't unplug the lower switches as outlined, I just let the lower bolster pad hang loose. Had a little trouble getting everything back together; the temp sensor came loose when I pulled the DIC panel out, had a little tough time getting it aligned back up. To fix the problem of the broken tabs I used some double sided 3M tape on both sides of the new switch and backed it up with Gorilla tape to hold it in. The 3M stuff will "set" in a couple of days like a glue. I didn't want to actually glue it back with epoxy or JB Weld in case the switch needs replacement again. While I had everything apart, I had previously observed a slight "buzz" in the dash, especially while stopped at a light or radio was off. I had tracked the problem down to the top of the DIC panel; it would go away if I pressed hard on the top of the panel. Soooo, I had some of that grey foam that's used all over the car, put some up at the rear of the DIC panel and buttoned everything back up. Re-connected the battery, and started the car. Eureka!! Started up just like it should. Only side effect was I lost all settings for memory seating, most of the settings in the DIC and TPMS valves all read zero on the DIC. Tire pressure all read 0 pounds. I took the car out for a test, put about 8 miles on the car and all the TPMS valves registered with correct tire pressure except the right rear. When I got back home, I let all but about 5 pounds of air out of the right rear, the DIC readout indicated I had low tire pressure in right rear. I aired the tire back up to proper pressure and DIC indicated all four tires at proper pressure. So all is well in my world today. Plus I got a box in FedEx from the Zaino store of stuff I had run out of. That's tomorrow's agenda
 
CONGRATULATIONS!! JOB WELL DONE IT SOUNDS. Had that been me, there would have been a comment along the lines of "so I got out a ball peen hammer" at least a couple of times!:thumbsup
 
CONGRATULATIONS!! JOB WELL DONE IT SOUNDS. Had that been me, there would have been a comment along the lines of "so I got out a ball peen hammer" at least a couple of times!:thumbsup

Thanks! Not a real tricky job, worst part is making sure you've got all the screws/bolts/nuts loose or taken off before you start pulling on the panels. I've done some wrenching in my past life so fairly comfortable doing stuff like this. Next project is repairing or replacing the lower console that has a broken hinge.
 
. Next project is repairing or replacing the lower console that has a broken hinge.

I'm REALLY INTERESTED in what you come up with on this. I have the same problem-- front hinge is broken. Please PM me and let me know what you find and how you fix it.

Phil Johnston
 

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