Help! Problem with my SRX

[kcrand]

I have a 2011 SRX, low mileage (45K maybe). I have had this vehicle for 6-7 years maybe with no issues other than I had to change the battery a couple years ago. This year, I have had some electrical problems that are sending chills up my spine. first the symptoms that something was up: I noticed the dash lights flickering, checked the voltage on the dash readout and it was about 14V. As I reved up the engine just a little the flickering went away, but at idle, it flickers. Then the computer is telling me to roll down drivers side window and then then back up, and the same for the passenger side window. (what is this all about). I did it anyway, engine still running. Then I was at my destination, a busy Post office. Shut the vehicle off, went inside and did my business. Came back out and NOTHING! No start, no lights, no dash lights, NOTHING! Called AAA, and they came down and said the battery was dead, they replaced the battery, and it worked fine for a couple of months. Recently, my wife decided to take the car instead of hers.... (like I had a choice in that), she brings it back home and parks it. I go to the bank and notice the same crap going on again, the flickering dash lights on idle. Sure enough I shut the vehicle off at the bank and come back out and I have NOTHING, no headlights, no dash lights, Nothing! I walk home as it is only 10 minutes walk from my home. Call AAA again and say I think I have a bum battery you just put in March this year. They show up, the tech puts his meter on the battery and says the battery is full power. Disconnects the positive terminal, cleans it again with a brush, ( I saw him do this the first time in March ), and reconnects, I can hear the arching of the connection as it was made. He says give it a try. I did. I had dash lights immediately and it did start right up. I did notice however that the lights were still flickering and that damn request from the dash to roll down the driver side and passenger side window came up. I drove it home and didn't touch it for a week or so. I drove it a few times to and from the post office, grocery store ect after that, no issues, no lights flickering or anything. Today I had to go back to the bank, and noticed the lights flickering. Now with covid 19, I was 3d in line, didn't want the damn thing stalling out and being stuck with no way to get out of line or even be under canopy and stuck. So I kept the engine reving about 1K, voltage 15.1 or so but if I let it idle that dropped to about 12.2 or 3. Sure enough, got my turn in line, did my business through the DT since the inside is not open, and drove my little beauty home. Backed her in (in preparation for the tow), shut it off and ya know when I tried to restart it, I have NOTHING! No lights, no dash, no start.

Am I just going to the bank to feed the dealership on this one?

 

[nerkpowers]

One thing to consider is that just because the battery reads 14V doesn’t mean that it is providing the amps needed to provide all of the computers that run modern cars. Take the car to an autozone. They can run a scan for diagnostic trouble codes. If you are getting low voltages to one or several modules (computers), change the battery. If not, the DTC’s will give you an idea of your issues.

Here is a list for Cadillac DTC’s

Diagnostic Trouble Codes | Cadillac Owners Forum


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[Gord]

Hi & welcome!

Sure seems like an alternator or almost most likely, a wiring issue. Fact (I'm writing it again): 9 out of 10 electrical problems are a bad connection.

Your battery is quite new. Even if it's low on charge, it should be able to be charged up and preferably by a low current charger over a 'casual' period of time. It should then be tested as mentioned: AutoZone, or grab a battery tester from Amazon or eBay. They're not expensive and can save you a trip.

I say alternator but what I really want to say is the voltage regulator within. Your car is getting right up there in the voltage department during charging and indeed, a modern day car doesn't appreciate that too much. Wiring (bad wiring) can cause all sorts of resistance and perhaps the line running from the alternator to the battery is frayed or tattered, maybe even broken and only making intermittent contact.

Perhaps the alternator internal regulator isn't doing its job - or can't because it can't get a proper voltage reading from the harness. And this sort of stuff can be as simple as just being dirty believe it or not.

Ditto as we go towards the starter motor with wiring and connections, not to mention the starter itself.

Ground connections are as important as the hot ones. Is your engine still properly grounded?

From what you've written (a bit hard to read all in one blob like that by the way), I do tend to lean towards the bad connection / broken or damaged wire theory primarily. Maybe an alternator. One thing is for sure, sort it soon because kicking the voltage around as you seem to be doing will do no favors to anything electrical in the car.

If you're not comfortable doing these sort of checks yourself, do see a reputable shop and consider to mention all that you've written and perhaps read here.

HTH!

Gord