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LED Replacement for DRL Turn Signals in Cadillac XLR - No Resistors - Replace or modify relay instead?

alterniTECH

Active Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2021
Messages
30
Location
Jacksonville, FL
My XLR/V(s)
2006 XLR
Hi everyone.

So, over the past 6 weeks, I spent a lot of time trying various LED replacement bulbs for the DRL's/Turn Signals. (Mind you, that my car is a 2006, and the headlamps are in near new condition, no burnt lenses). I did this, to be proactive to prevent any future damage. To my dissapointment, NONE of the canbus/error free ones work. They all failed, and they are all VERY HOT, if not hotter than the halogens. So, I decided to try the external load resistor with standard LED bulbs. They worked, perfectly, but, I think it's pure stupidity to have that much heat dissapating from resistors. Very inneficient. So, I pulled it all out and put the halogen bulbs back in, and will drive with my DRL's off until I can find (what I feel to be) an acceptable solution. Which leads me to this question: Does anyone know if the relay(s) in the XLR can be modified to prevent the hyperflash situation so as to not have to install the hot resistors? I found an article for someone who modified their relay in an Acura TL, and there seems to be some relays on the market that do this as well. Is this possible in the XLR? I'm not so savy to figure it out on my own, but there's got to be a better way. There just has to be. Here's the article I found in regards to the TL:

G-109: DIY-Eliminate LED Bulb Induced Hyper flashing WITHOUT LOAD RESISTORS - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community
 
I have the LEDs installed with the load resisters and have has no issues for 2 1/2 years the resistor heat is not a problem but at least my DRLs are cool.
 
An interesting "side note." I just purchased a used Ford suv in which the last owner replaced halogen with LED bulbs--- He left me with the packaging and instructions for the new LED bulbs. Incredulous as it seems, the LED replacements have built in "mini cooling electric fans" as part of each bulb assembly. For decades, I made the general ASSUMPTION that LED lights ran cool, used much less power to produce light, and were long lasting.... Apparently, the "dropping resistance" in these LED assemblies suggests that, aside from more brightness, resistive heat calls into question the efficacy for replacing the halogens. THoughts? James
 
An interesting "side note." I just purchased a used Ford suv in which the last owner replaced halogen with LED bulbs--- He left me with the packaging and instructions for the new LED bulbs. Incredulous as it seems, the LED replacements have built in "mini cooling electric fans" as part of each bulb assembly. For decades, I made the general ASSUMPTION that LED lights ran cool, used much less power to produce light, and were long lasting.... Apparently, the "dropping resistance" in these LED assemblies suggests that, aside from more brightness, resistive heat calls into question the efficacy for replacing the halogens. THoughts? James
LED's do run cool and must stay cool. Heat will kill the LED. The resistance heat from using LED's is mostly from resistance necessary to keep your car from telling you that you have a bulb out through the car's diagnostic system. I found a switch back DRL, turn signal LED that does not generate as much heat the resistor would.
As far as LED headlight bulbs all hav resistors and will generate a fair amount of heat.
I just put LED headlight bulbs in my car and first tried the Headlight Expert brand. They won't work for the XLR because the hole in the reflector is too small to let the cooling tube that surrounds the LED tower enter the reflector and the resistor is too close to the bulb to mount it outside the cover.
I did use LASFIT brand and the work great and the cable is long enough to mount the resistor outside the cover. They also have a switchback bulb for the DRL that does not use an external resistor but it looks like it vents the heat inside the lamp. How much I don't know.
Hope this helps a little.
 
Hi everyone.

So, over the past 6 weeks, I spent a lot of time trying various LED replacement bulbs for the DRL's/Turn Signals. (Mind you, that my car is a 2006, and the headlamps are in near new condition, no burnt lenses). I did this, to be proactive to prevent any future damage. To my dissapointment, NONE of the canbus/error free ones work. They all failed, and they are all VERY HOT, if not hotter than the halogens. So, I decided to try the external load resistor with standard LED bulbs. They worked, perfectly, but, I think it's pure stupidity to have that much heat dissapating from resistors. Very inneficient. So, I pulled it all out and put the halogen bulbs back in, and will drive with my DRL's off until I can find (what I feel to be) an acceptable solution. Which leads me to this question: Does anyone know if the relay(s) in the XLR can be modified to prevent the hyperflash situation so as to not have to install the hot resistors? I found an article for someone who modified their relay in an Acura TL, and there seems to be some relays on the market that do this as well. Is this possible in the XLR? I'm not so savy to figure it out on my own, but there's got to be a better way. There just has to be. Here's the article I found in regards to the TL:

G-109: DIY-Eliminate LED Bulb Induced Hyper flashing WITHOUT LOAD RESISTORS - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community
I simply twist the knob to turn on my LED fog lights. It's a habit now
 
I installed these into my 2007 and they work great. If you read the amazon ad it states the protective case is heat shielded to prevent damage to anything nearby. Amazon ad says they will not fit the XLR but they do perfectly and no hyperflash or warning.

I thing the XLR blinkers etc. are controlled by the computer so I don't know how something could be added without some extensive wiring. I had a DeTomaso Pantera that I converted to all LED's and I bought a Flasher controller from Pantera Electronics that plugged into the place of the original and it worked fine. Don't know you could do this on the XLR since it has no flasher as far as I know.
 
The reason the / a resistor is needed is the car senses the current draw from the bulb to determine if the bulb is burnt out or not. It is a DOT requirement that either an indicator on the dash or rapid flashing when a turn signal bulb is bad, and in this vintage of car, they do that by sensing the current consumption. Most, if not all CAN bus compatible LEDs just have resistors built into them so they consume the same power, but give you the look of LED.
 
Hi,
I have these in my 2006 base.
They work fine and don`t run hot. Except the resistor, but you can easily install it away in to the "bay" near the lights.
these are for European models with clear drl´s and amber turn signals.

 
I simply twist the knob to turn on my LED fog lights. It's a habit now
Hello rexster. what do you mean you put your fog lights on. My fog light turn seem to have a spring return...wont stay on. If you use the fog light does it turn off the DLR ? New to XLR and confused. Thanks CRRHGR
 
I installed these into my 2007 and they work great. If you read the amazon ad it states the protective case is heat shielded to prevent damage to anything nearby. Amazon ad says they will not fit the XLR but they do perfectly and no hyperflash or warning.
I tried to use these and the previously mentioned switchback bulbs in my 2005 XLR but they both produced Hyperflash only on the left (driver) side. Didn't matter the plug polarity or if I swapped the LED bulbs from left the right. Still had Hyperflash on the Left/Driver side. Right /passenger side had no hyperflash. Humm
 

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