Is the Bose Amp Unique to The XLR?

[Z1.]

I could be wrong, but looking at the XLR's Bose Amp, I think it's a one off (uniquely XLR). The 2004 -2006 SRX Bose amp appears similar but it can't be tuned for those four small seat speakers and for a convertible. A local car sound specialist (Al and Ed's Autosound), which is like a swamp cooler calling itself an air conditioner, told me he would throw the amp away if I wanted to install a new radio system. I have NO intention of doing that. Any thoughts...…

 

[Full-Tilt-Hiltz]

Hello,

This is an old post and just to clarify the importance of the amp.
For the sake of hanging onto the amp, it sends a signal to the ACC, so when the previous owner tossed it and upgraded the stereo in my 2006, his shortfall disabled the ACC, and also seems to have restricted the key fob reprogramming through the rear key slot. Leave the amp in and work with or around it.

FYI

FTH

 

[robert.ogden2009]

I've seen numerous posts about lost features from people swapping out Amp.

 

[Full-Tilt-Hiltz]

Update,

In my 2004 service manual(s) I found the following note related to the amp and the ACC in Volume 2 on page 11-85.

" Radio Amplifier
The amplifier receives audible warning commands via a class 2 message from the BCM. The chime alerts the vehicle driver to certain ACC vehicle conditions. The audible chime accompanies a visual indicator as a warning to the driver. The ACC system will not operate if the radio amplifier fails."

I have removed the factory amp from my 2004 and investigated the "quality install" inside the passenger kick panel of my 2006. They left me the small C3 connector that lists the Class 2 Serial Data, so I am going to plug in that connection, possibly cut and splice in the 8 pin C1 connector from my 2004 that has the power and ground, and see what happens (pages 11-105).

From what I can see, all I need is to power on the factory amp and I have the data connection (thankfully). I may change my mind and connect the power and ground wires right into the pins on the amp without cutting out the C1 connector from the 2004.

Based on the service manual, it seems to be the amp that matters, not the entire radio.
In another separate post, I am chasing a problem with my ACC not working after a stereo upgrade. This thread is more specific to the amp. I will update in a day or two, hopefully the ACC decides to work after it "receives signals" from the factory amp again.

FTH

 

[robert.ogden2009]

Sounds like you have the right idea. Wish you the best of luck with this and look forward to hearing how it goes.

 

[Full-Tilt-Hiltz]

Confirmed solution.

The factory amp does communicate with the ACC and the ACC will not work without it.

As mentioned in my last post, I hooked up the factory amp from my 2004 into my 2006 through the C3 connector, ran power and a ground to the amp pins in the C1 connection port, and in the test drive the ACC is now fully functional in my 2006 with an after market stereo install. There was also an unexpected gap test on the highway because of another drivers lane change. Everything works perfect in the HUD and steering wheel. This means that with the right steering wheel module, there is no need to keep the radio or head unit, its the amp that does the work. -Joy- ,, cruise control after 4 years. My plan is to mount the amp vertically in the passenger side compartment in the trunk, and wire in accordingly from under the passenger kick panel.

This was a long pursuit, thanks to those who commented in the various threads.

FTH

 

[robert.ogden2009]

Hooray! I'm glad to see this work out so well for you.