Tinker
Active Member
Engine Won't Crank, ECM Suspected, Solution Found
My XLR refused to start after disconnecting the battery to remove a malfunctioning hydraulic top pump. In researching the starting circuit (in the service manual) many discrepancies were noted, but a “no crank” condition boiled down to the proper operation of the underhood Crank relay, #43.
This is a little, 4 pin, “Ice cube” style relay. Testing these enclosed relays requires removing the case.This results in a broken case, so getting a spare relay is required ($10.00 new, or $1.00 at a wrecking yard). Upon replacing the original relay with a caseless one testing proceeded. Closing the contacts resulted in proper starter operation, so it was time to look at the power to the coil.
During the normal starting sequence the coil gets voltage from the Body Control Module, and the Engine Control Module supplies the ground. While trying to start the engine the DVM indicated 12 volts across on both of the coil terminals, which meant the Engine Control Module wasn’t doing its job.
With this information another attempt was made to start the car. When the lights went out on the Instrument Cluster (the normal pause when the start button is pushed) the Crank Relay contacts were manually closed by a helper, and the engine roared to life. The tachometer worked, but the Fuel, Oil Pressure, and Temperature gauges were at zero. Searching through the schematics revealed all of these sensors were directly fed into the Engine Control Module.
Now the question is, has the Engine Control Module lost its brains (needing to be reprogramed) or is it time to replace it? In checking for replacements it appears that these require re-programing by the dealer, or part supplier, to function properly. Does anyone have experience with this?
I'm still awaiting a PCMCIA card for the TECH 2.
My XLR refused to start after disconnecting the battery to remove a malfunctioning hydraulic top pump. In researching the starting circuit (in the service manual) many discrepancies were noted, but a “no crank” condition boiled down to the proper operation of the underhood Crank relay, #43.
This is a little, 4 pin, “Ice cube” style relay. Testing these enclosed relays requires removing the case.This results in a broken case, so getting a spare relay is required ($10.00 new, or $1.00 at a wrecking yard). Upon replacing the original relay with a caseless one testing proceeded. Closing the contacts resulted in proper starter operation, so it was time to look at the power to the coil.
During the normal starting sequence the coil gets voltage from the Body Control Module, and the Engine Control Module supplies the ground. While trying to start the engine the DVM indicated 12 volts across on both of the coil terminals, which meant the Engine Control Module wasn’t doing its job.
With this information another attempt was made to start the car. When the lights went out on the Instrument Cluster (the normal pause when the start button is pushed) the Crank Relay contacts were manually closed by a helper, and the engine roared to life. The tachometer worked, but the Fuel, Oil Pressure, and Temperature gauges were at zero. Searching through the schematics revealed all of these sensors were directly fed into the Engine Control Module.
Now the question is, has the Engine Control Module lost its brains (needing to be reprogramed) or is it time to replace it? In checking for replacements it appears that these require re-programing by the dealer, or part supplier, to function properly. Does anyone have experience with this?
I'm still awaiting a PCMCIA card for the TECH 2.
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