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Help! $2800 wasted on shocks; rear driver side too low; electrical problems caused the dealership

SanDiegoXLR

Seasoned Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2009
Messages
143
Location
San Diego, CA
My XLR/V(s)
2005 Platinum with Shale
Hi All,
My dashboard had the message: "SERVICE RIDE CONTROL".
The dealer, Marvin K Brown, informed me one of the front shocks was leaking. The ride quality seemed fine, but the rear driver side tire had only about 1/2" clearance from the wheel well, while all the others are 2 1/2".
It was impossible to go over speed bumps without scraping the undercarriage of the car.
To fix the problem the dealer recommended replacing all 4 shocks....at a cost of $4,400- ouch!!
I was able to buy them online for $2,400, and had them installed for $400.

So $2,800 and 2 full days later in the shop- and guess what- my rear driver side is THE SAME 1/2" clearance. Still scraping. UGH!
I showed it to the service adviser, and he said "Oh, that's normal."
Ummm, no it's not. Why would it just be that one corner? I've looked at several photos of XLRs on this site, and the clearance is supposed to be very similar for a 4 wheel wells.
After reading posts on here, I'm wondering if the ride height adjustment needs to be fixed? Or maybe the springs?

The situation get worse----the assistant service manager said it took 2 days to finish the repairs because the "technician accidentally cut the wiring loom when installing the sensor for the shock".
When I got home I realized my Homelink garage controller, the rear view mirror lights, and trunk lights no longer work.
UGH.
Very furious, and this is the only Cadillac dealership in San Diego.

I'm bringing it back tomorrow, but would be helpful to come armed with information from you guys.
Thanks for any insights you can provide.
-Mark
 
You might start the conversation with your dealership's Service Manager to have his XLR tech refer to the "Trim Height Adjustment" section of the shop manual. If the adjustment is fine, (and from what you're posting, it doesn't sound so good) the troubleshooting tree for "Suspension General Diagnosis" problems might help out.

CCC :wave:
 
Thank you for the quick response!
Is the troubleshooting tree something that is posted on xlr-net.com, or is it just in the dealer's shop manual?



You might start the conversation with your dealership's Service Manager to have his XLR tech refer to the "Trim Height Adjustment" section of the shop manual. If the adjustment is fine, (and from what you're posting, it doesn't sound so good) the troubleshooting tree for "Suspension General Diagnosis" problems might help out.

CCC :wave:
 
The suspension troubleshooting tree is planted within the shop/service manual. They're available from helminc.com

CCC :wave:
 
Thanks!! The manual is $275. I wonder if this one is the same [h=1]XLR / XLR-V 2004-2009 Factory Service Workshop repair manual[/h]www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/257806681-xlr-xlr-v-2004-2009-factory-service-workshop
$10.95 to download the PDF

The service manager intervened, and he's going to help get the problem resolved on Monday.
He was saying that the shocks are not the reason why the car is sitting so low in the corner- he thinks it's the leaf spring or the ride height adjustment setting. Wish he would have told me that before I spent $2800 on shocks!!
Still no clue why the electronics are messed up (map lights, HomeLink, trunk lights). Of course they are trying to claim it wasn't their fault, even though they admitting to accidentally cutting the wire loom.
 
Thanks!! The manual is $275. I wonder if this one is the same XLR / XLR-V 2004-2009 Factory Service Workshop repair manual

XLR / XLR-V 2004-2009 Factory Service Workshop repair manual - Down...
$10.95 to download the PDF

The service manager intervened, and he's going to help get the problem resolved on Monday.
He was saying that the shocks are not the reason why the car is sitting so low in the corner- he thinks it's the leaf spring or the ride height adjustment setting. Wish he would have told me that before I spent $2800 on shocks!!
Still no clue why the electronics are messed up (map lights, HomeLink, trunk lights). Of course they are trying to claim it wasn't their fault, even though they admitting to accidentally cutting the wire loom.


Shocks have NOTHING to do with ride height, the spring supports the weight of the car not the shock, the shock is used to dampen to movement of the car. Drives me crazy when a supposedly mechanic has no idea how suspension works !!!
 
I should have consulted you guys before plunking down all that money based upon a wrong diagnosis. :mad:

Hope they don't try to stick me with the cost of having to repair the electrical issues. They claim they are not related to the shocks. All I know is they were working fine before I brought the car in, and now they aren't. Hope it's just a blown fuse? Are the interior map lights, trunk lights, and HomeLink all somehow connected?
 
If I may add. You can tell them that your XLR was working fine prior to them cutting the wires? I wouldn't be suprised that the mechanic is generate money.:mad: My girlfriend took her SL500 into the shop for repairs at the Mercedes Benzs dealership in Fresno, CA. Nearly $3,500 in repairs that was paid by MaxCare insurance the shop tried to say that her car needed new batteries (front and back) for $500! I told her to have them too jump start the car and then head straight to AutoZone. Guess what? Nothing was wrong with the batteries! The battery was tested by AutoZone and the readout was normal. I suspect because she is a WOMAN they were trying to put the squeeze on her wallet. Personally, I do not trust any dealership.

It is always best to take a complete video of your cars prior to sending it to the dealership and if your car was working "just fine" prior to sending it to the shop then the question remains is: why all of a sudden I'm having issues/problems right after it's in their care? Use social media if possible and threaten to go public. That's my .02 cent.
 
Top Cadillac Mechanic in San Diego County

Might want to try GM Exclusive in Vista, CA. Art Montano (the owner) is a fully certified ASE/GM Master Technician. His work will better than any dealership Jim Bob and much more economical. I worked with him on an OnStar modification a while back.
 
Thanks for the insights.
The idea of taking a video of the car before bringing it into the dealership is a good idea.....it's a shame it has come down to that!
Although, I'm not sure that I would have thought to have included the Homelink and rear trunk lights in the video. Those just aren't common things to break on our cars.

I looked through the owner's manual and the map light is Fuse # 25.
The manual does not list the fuse numbers for Homelink or for the trunk lights.
It's probably not just the fuse because Fuse # 25 is also linked to the climate control system, which is working fine.

madcurl- Out of curiosity, how much $ in repairs has your MaxCare insurance covered for your girlfriend's SL500? I cross-shopped the SL along with my XLR (probably like many of us on this website), but decided not to get one due to the poor Consumer Reports reliability rating and horror stories of expensive repairs.....I know someone that spent $12k in repairs in less than a year for their 2005 SL500. The airshocks are all known to go bad on the SL500, so I figured I wouldn't have expensive shock replacement costs on the XLR-----> WRONG!!! I was told that the extended warranties didn't cover the electric top or the airshocks- so that's why I didn't buy an SL500 + warranty. Well, and also because I see 6+ SL's per day and only see about 3 XLRs during an entire year ;-) :cool:

Z1- thanks for the tip about GM Exclusive. Marvin K Brown is 2 miles from my house, versus 39 miles to Vista, but might be worth it just for piece of mind. I need to get my transmission fluid flushed and a few other things as I approach 100k miles.
 
Also- since Marvin K Brown is making at least $2000 mark-up on parts for a set of shocks----I wonder how often they are making the recommendation to people to replace these? That is a lot of pure profit.
I really can't tell a difference in ride quality after they were replaced, so there was no need to replace all 4.

So- just a warning to everyone- really make sure your shocks need to be replaced (get a second opinion!) before throwing away all that money.
 
Just figured out the electrical issues- Fuse # 10A blew.
Swapped it with a new one, and everything is working again (map lights, trunk lights, HomeLink).....whewwwww!
Glad it was a cheap and simple fix.
 
Bringing it back on Monday morning to have them look at the leaf spring and ride height....will let you know the result.
 
I had a similar experience (during my last service/inspection a few months ago) with a dealer recommending I replace all four shocks due to oil weeping. When I got home, I slid the rubber boots back, and they were relatively clean. I waited a month and checked again, and they were still clean. They also told me my rear stabilizer bar end links were shot, and I was a little surprised, since I installed them myself when making the stabilizer bar upgrade. Both of them were fine as well. My ride is still as smooth as when I purchased the car. Did they blow their credibility with me? Pretty much.

I've taken my car to dealerships in three states, and while most of my dealings with GM Service Departments have been very positive, it always pays to "trust but verify" when expensive parts are recommended for replacement. My Service Manuals have more than paid for themselves and were a good investment.

I'm glad it was something as simple as a fuse that fixed your electrical problem!

Personally, I'd have a meeting with the Service Manager about your wasted shock replacement and ask for a refund. His people made a bad call, you got stuck with a big bill, and he should own up to it. If you're non-confrontational and ask him how he would feel under the same circumstances, he might make it right. If not, he would lose my business and I'd go to a Chevy dealer for any work that isn't top-related.

A dealership relies on it's Service Department as the main source of revenue. They're rated by GM for the quality of the work they perform. The staff is rewarded for superior service when compared to competing dealerships. (Like trips to Hawaii, etc.) The customer feedback forms they give us (or are supposed to ) when we have service performed is a big part of the ranking system, and is one way your voice can be heard. Positive (and negative) experiences should be noted.


CC :wave:
 
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Hi CC,
Thanks for sharing your story.
Seems like a lot of dealers are jumping on the "replace all shocks" bandwagon.
The shocks are supposedly sealed, so I don't understand why leaking is such an issue. Must be a design problem?
All I know is that I will never purchase another car with it (e.g. Corvette Stingray, CTS, etc). Just too unreliable and expensive to replace.
Wish I had thought to slide the boots back and monitor the amount of leaking like you did.....very smart idea. Not really sure how much fluid is in them....but losing a few drops here and there should be ok?

How much did they quote you to replace the rear stabilizer bar end links?

I agree with "trust but verify". When the assistant service manager basically guessed that I needed new shocks- I should have asked to have spoken with the actual technician or the technical service manager before I bought them.

What really annoyed me is when I asked the assistant service manager "Are you 100% sure that I need to replace all the shocks? These are very expensive. The cost alone is probably >1/10 the value of the car!" His responsive was, "Well, my recommendation is to get a credit card that is for all of your car expenses, and sometimes you can get 0% interest for a year. I have a Porsche 911 and the repairs are expensive and that's how I pay for it." What kind of moronic answer is that??? I don't care about your unreliable Porsche.

They are going to determine on Monday what is causing the sagging. I'm still scraping when going over speed bumps on the driver's side, so clearly the expensive shock replacement didn't address that problem.
I doubt they'd refund me on the parts because I bought them from "multiparts" on ebay: multiparts1 on eBay
Which is a website for Multi Chervolet in Union, NJ.
I would definitely demand my money back or file a lawsuit against the dealership had I purchased the shocks for $4400 from them.

We have quite a few Chevy dealerships- so maybe I'll just give my business to them (aside from top issues), or to just a reputable shop.
Marvin K Brown wants $330 for a transmission flush, which seems awfully expensive. I'd imagine any shop can do that much cheaper.

I received a customer feedback form in my e-mail box. I'll wait and see how Monday goes before I complete it.
The dealership forgot to install my new trunk struts (my trunk doesn't stay open when the weather is cold)- even though I had e-mailed the service adviser, told them I needed that service when I scheduled it over the phone, wrote it on the envelope for the drop box keys, and even also listed it in a letter with the keys.....I asked them to do this in 4 places- they had the car for 2 days, the parts were in the trunk in the same box as the shock parts.....and they still didn't do it. At least the technical service manager said they'd do that labor for free when they are looking at it tomorrow.

My "Service Stabillitrak" light came on today. Geez. If it's not one thing, it's another. But luckily all I had to do was add extra power steering fluid. Seems like it gets pretty empty every few months....so must have some sort of leak. Easy enough just to add extra fluid here and there.

-Mark
 
Greetings Mark,

My local dealer wanted the MSRP for the end links, which is ridiculous; --especially when they're fine.

Filling the power steering fluid reservoir has nothing to do with Stabilitrac, and if it's running low every few months, you have a leak that needs to be addressed. Mine cracked during the first year of ownership, and was replaced with a heavy-duty "V" replacement. If your reservoir is rectangular, (looking down from the top) it's the old model. The replacements are round. I've never had to fill it since, but flushed it last year before I moved East.

Have the tech run a diagnostic scan when you return your car. It takes about five minutes and will either give you a clue about your Stabilitrac system, or he can clear all stored trouble codes (DTCs) in memory.

CC :wave:
 
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Just looked- and my reservoir is round.
The original owner (2005-2009) must have had it replaced. Pretty bad that the replacement is now having issues!
After filling it up, the Stabilitrak light went away.

I read somewhere that any issue with the traction control, steering, or suspension systems can cause Stabilitrak errors. The power steering pump was almost completely empty, so it makes sense that could be why the warning popped up.


Greetings Mark,

My local dealer wanted the MSRP for the end links, which is ridiculous; --especially when they're fine.

Filling the power steering fluid reservoir has nothing to do with Stabilitrac, and if it's running low every few months, you have a leak that needs to be addressed. Mine cracked during the first year of ownership, and was replaced with a heavy-duty "V" replacement. If your reservoir is rectangular, (looking down from the top) it's the old model. The replacements are round. I've never had to fill it since, but flushed it last year before I moved East.

Have the tech run a diagnostic scan when you return your car. It takes about five minutes and will either give you a clue about your Stabilitrac system, or he can clear all stored trouble codes (DTCs) in memory.

CC :wave:
 
madcurl- Out of curiosity, how much $ in repairs has your MaxCare insurance covered for your girlfriend's SL500? I cross-shopped the SL along with my XLR (probably like many of us on this website), but decided not to get one due to the poor Consumer Reports reliability rating and horror stories of expensive repairs.....I know someone that spent $12k in repairs in less than a year for their 2005 SL500. The airshocks are all known to go bad on the SL500, so I figured I wouldn't have expensive shock replacement costs on the XLR-----> WRONG!!! I was told that the extended warranties didn't cover the electric top or the airshocks- so that's why I didn't buy an SL500 + warranty. Well, and also because I see 6+ SL's per day and only see about 3 XLRs during an entire year ;-) :cool:

MaxCare covered 100% of the repair work for $3,391.25 but they've covered two times before which the first was the $1700 plus head light and right after that brakes, rotors, and some other items that was cost to 3k. In all she had to pay the $100 deductable for each time.
 
I usually don't believe in coincidence, but in this case. . .

The power steering fluid reservoir has little to do with Stabilitrac or your suspension system for that matter. There's no interface to connect the systems. There isn't a level indicator sensor in the reservoir, so the vehicle can't monitor how much fluid is in there; a Mk-1 Mod 0 dipstick and calibrated eyeball is employed for that.

The only interface between Stabilitrac and the steering system (this might be what you read about) is the yaw sensor located behind the infotainment system. If the vehicle's heading changes (detected by the yaw sensor) and it doesn't match a corresponding change in the steering wheel position, Stabilitrac is engaged, and will apply braking to the opposite side of the yaw direction to "re-align" the car.

The only possible connection I can think of is your steering may have been sensed as rough due to a low level and the yaw sensor picked it up, but that's a stretch unless you noticed an improvement to the "feel" of the steering wheel feedback after topping off the reservoir.

Traction Control and Suspension systems do interface with Stabilitrac.

CC :wave:
 

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